The Jeweler's Eye

Estate Jewelry as a Valentine Day's Gift

2012-01-16T09:33:00.015-05:00

Valentine's Day is a time for sweethearts and lovers to share special gifts and tokens of endearment. Cards and candies are traditional gifts. There is also a long tradition of jewels from the past being given as an expression of one's feelings in the present and hopes for the future.

The brooches and pins created 100 years ago are particularly appropriate for conveying the sentimental messages of Valentine's Day. They are laden with symbolic meanings and hidden messages favored during the late Victorian era and early 20th century. Below is a sampling of a few of our favorite brooches and stickpins from the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

So, if you are stuck on someone special or wish to brooch the subject of your intimate feelings, an antique stickpin or brooch may be the perfect Valentine's Day gift!

Goddess of Spring

Flora, the Goddess of Spring and Flowers, was a symbol or rebirth and new beginnings. The Goddess's golden tresses are bestrewn with a bouquet of flowers and foliage. This brooch is beautifully rendered in the Art Nouveau style. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1900.

Dogwoods and the Moon

The Victorians loved jewels with hidden meanings. One form were rebus jewels in which elements of the jewel represented a word or phrase. For example small brooches with delicate enamel flowers set in a crescent moon, like this one, could be interpreted as "honeymoon."
The small dogwood blossoms beautifully crafted in pink and white enamel also held symbolic meaning. Among Victorians dogwood blossoms were a symbol of persistence as well as an indication of affection. Perhaps this brooch was a gift from a husband to his wife on their wedding night or at the time of their betrothal. Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Grapes and Pearls

Beautifully detailed grape leaves and a cluster of fresh water pearls cascade across the oval frame of this Victorian brooch. In Victorian times grapes and grape leaves were a symbol of Christ, but also carried overtones of Bacchus and riotous revelry. Created by Ostby & Barton in 10kt gold, circa 1890.

Irises

A bouquet of golden irises flourishes amid an Art Nouveau tangle of curvaceous stems and foliage. Irises were a symbol of faith, hope and a promise in love. This brooch beautifully captures the wild, fluid aspect of Art Nouveau design. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Art Nouveau Ginkgo

A beautiful Art Nouveau brooch of intertwined ginkgo leaves surrounding a soft pastel Amethyst. The intricate, flowing design is accented with two small pearls. In Japan and China, Gingko trees are a traditional symbol of longevity and resilience. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Acorns and Oak

An oak leaf and two acorns suspended from a small branch. The oak leaf is beautifully enameled with shimmering shades of green, yellow and pink. The acorns are set with two small pearls. The oak leaves and acorns are a symbol of strength and endurance, as well as a reminder that great things come from small beginnings. Crafted in 18kt and 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Lucky Charm

A beautiful four-leaf clover with richly detailed green enamel leaves. A small pearl is set in the center like a morning dew drop. This naturalistic jewel will undoubtedly bring luck to the giver, the wearer and their relationship. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

A Safe Return

A wonderful brooch of a swallow in flight. Among the Victorians swallows were a symbol of a loved one returning safely home. Aptly, swallows were often the first birds seen by ships returning to port. The piece is beautifully modeled with richly detailed feathers and wings and a red gemstone (possibly ruby or garnet) set as the eye. Created by Riker Bros. in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Additional photographs and information on these and other fine estate jewels
can be found in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Elegant Stickpins

2011-12-03T08:06:00.019-05:00

The last several weeks we have been taking a Holiday tour of the Estate Jewelry and Antique Cufflink Galleries. This week we are taking a look at one of the less celebrated, sometimes forgotten, estate jewels ... the stickpin.

In the 19th and early 20th centuries no sartorially resplendent gentleman would be seen without a stickpin to secure his cravat or tie. In the 21st century these elegant jewels are often seen gracing jacket lapels or the front of a hat. Below is a sampling of these wonderful diminutive jewels from the early decades of the last century.

Entwined Serpents

The maker of this stickpin, Carter, Howe & Company, created a menagerie teeming with serpents, dragons, griffins and other exotic creatures. This example features entwined serpents with jealous green eyes guarding a regal purple amethyst. A small fresh water pearl is set above the serpents like a distant, full moon. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Dragon and Sceptre

Another example from the Carter, Howe menagerie of exotic and mythical beasts. Here a fierce dragon is either protecting or impaled on a golden sceptre set with a pearl. The dragon watches with a wary dark green eye, a hallmark of the golden chimeras Carter, Howe created. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Border Collie

A vigilant border collie watches from within a dome of rock crystal. The pooch is beautifully sculpted with a finely detailed coat, whiskers and soulful eyes. The miniature masterpiece was created by an artist meticulously carving the image into the reverse of a polished dome of rock crystal. Then, using brushes as small as a single hair, the collie was carefully painted with fine, lifelike details. Crafted in 18kt gold, circa 1880.

Egyptian Revival

A stylized palmette soars above a luminous pearl framed with flowing geometric scrolls. A dramatic example of the beautiful Egyptian Revival jewels created in the early 1900s. Victorian and later jewelry makers often found inspiration in the jewels and designs of ancient civilizations. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Heliotrope

A striking heliotrope, or bloodstone, set in a distinctive Arts & Crafts stickpin. The early Arts & Crafts movement drew significant inspiration from the craftsmanship and designs of the Middle Ages. The cruciform-shape of the stickpin and bloodstone reflect the Victorian interest in the symbols and spirituality of the earlier period. Created by The Brassler Company in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Winged Serpent

Continuing the theme of Gothic or Medieval inspired jewels, this menacing stickpin features a winged serpent warily clutching a small pearl. The charming little fellow is the perfect miniature gargoyle to keep demons and goblins from a lapel or tie. The rich detail of the stickpin is a nice example of the fully modeled, sculpture-like miniature jewels of the period. Beautifully crafted by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Equestrian

During the mid Victorian period (circa 1860) through the 1920s, equestrian and hunt-related jewelry were all the rage. This beautifully designed stickpin features an energetic, alert horse with a small red stone (likely a garnet) set as the eye. The dramatic, richly detailed design of the horse suggests the stickpin was created during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Moonstone

This stickpin exudes classical elegance with a luminous moonstone surrounded by a wreath of laurel leaves. The laurel wreath is exquisitely crafted and finely detailed. The moonstone is complemented by a small white pearl set below. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Acorns and Oak

An oak leaf and two acorns grow from a small branch. The oak leaf is beautifully enameled with shimmering shades of green, yellow and pink. The acorns are set with two small pearls. Possibly created by Krementz & Company in 18kt and 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Stickpins have been described as miniature sculptures set atop shafts of gold. They were created in an almost limitless variety of designs and styles. Above is only a small sampling.

These and other fine stickpins can be found in the
Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Antique Cufflinks

2011-11-24T18:47:00.012-05:00

Last week I featured several brooches from our Antique and Estate Jewelry showcase. When custom creating a jewel I often draw inspiration from the designs and craftsmanship of jewels created in the past. While the jewels we create are modern and adapted to the client's taste, they are rooted in a timeless tradition of elegant design and fine craftsmanship.

I am always amazed by the great diversity of designs that can be found among antique jewels. This is especially true of the cufflinks created during the early decades of the last century. Below is a holiday sampling of late Victorian and Jazz Age cufflinks from our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Carrington Fireworks!

Carrington & Company created some of the finest dress sets during the Art Deco era. This pearl and mother-of-pearl set is among them. The mother-of-pearl centers are beautifully engraved with a pattern reminiscent of exploding fireworks while the swirling scrolls of the white gold borders bring to mind a starry night. At the center a small pearl rests in a white gold collar with a mille grain edge. Created in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Voluptuous Scrolls!

A tangle of voluptuous scrolls enlivens these striking cufflinks from the turn of the last century. They feature the tight, twisting swirls favored in American Art Nouveau jewelry design. Created by Link & Angell in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Art Deco Sapphires!

Elegant Art Deco cufflinks with dramatic compass rose centers set with small blue sapphires. Jagged Greek key borders with stylized thistles inside mille grain outer edges complete the design. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Art Deco Diamonds!

Art Deco cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and dramatic geometric borders. Small diamonds sparkle in box settings with millegrain edges. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Infinite Squiggles!

Elegant blue and gold cufflinks featuring an endless golden tangle of squiggles. Surrounding the squiggles are alternating bands of blue enamel and brightly polished gold. A nice example of the dramatic, imaginative designs of the 1930s and '40s. Crafted in 14kt gold by Larter & Sons, circa 1930.

Black and White!

Dramatic Art Deco cufflinks with striking black enamel borders and linearly engraved white gold centers. A nice example of the elegant black-and-white cufflinks of the late 1920s and 1930s. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Midnight Blue!

Elegant cufflinks set with beautiful rich blue gemstones that bring to mind dark night skies with a few wispy clouds illuminated in the moonlight. Known as "sodalite," this gemstone, along with Lapis lazuli, was favored during Art Deco period because of its rich, regal blue color. Created in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

Garlands and Swags!

Exuberant two-tone cufflinks from the 1920s. The yellow gold centers feature classic garlands and swags and are surrounded by white gold borders with a bold geometric design. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1925.

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Antique Brooches and Pins

2011-11-16T09:16:00.017-05:00

The holidays are fast approaching and we have been busy decorating the gallery for the coming festivities. As so often happens, some of the prettiest ornaments are not on our tree or hanging in the windows. They are sparkling in the antique jewelry showcase.

When custom creating jewels for clients I often look to jewels from the past for inspiration. Jewelry from earlier times was often beautifully crafted and can be found in an incredible variety of styles. Here are a few of my favorite brooches and pins from the late Victorian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras. These and other fine antique jewels can be found in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Serpent and Acanthus!

The Victorians' fascination with exotic mythological creatures was only limited by their imagination. A fierce lion-headed serpent with a tail of flame-like acanthus leaves warily guards this brooch with a jealous green eye. A glowing pearl is set in the center. Created by Carter, Howe in 14kt gold, circa 1890.

The Dream!

An exquisite, petite brooch of a woman serenely dreaming amid lucky clovers. The woman's profile and the four-leaf clovers are beautifully enameled in soft pastel shades. The clovers are set with sparkling dew drop-like diamonds. Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Art Nouveau Ginkgo!

A beautiful Art Nouveau brooch of intertwined ginkgo leaves surrounding a soft pastel Amethyst. The intricate, flowing design is accented with two small pearls. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Amethyst and Pearls!

A striking Krementz Art Nouveau brooch with pastel enamel leaves and pearl clusters surrounding a regal amethyst. A small diamond sparkles at the top of the brooch. Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Art Deco!

A dramatic Art Deco brooch set with a beautiful honey-colored Citrine. The gold sides of the brooch rise up pyramid-like to support the gemstone. They are decorated with a boldly geometric Greek key design. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1930.

Grapes and Pearls!

Beautifully detailed grape leaves and a cluster of fresh water pearls cascade across the oval frame of this Victorian brooch. In Victorian times grapes and grape leaves were a symbol of Christ, but also carried overtones of Bacchus and riotous revelry. Created by Ostby & Barton in 10kt gold, circa 1890.

Lucky Clover!

A beautiful Art Nouveau brooch of a four-leaf clover set with a small diamond. The leaves are richly detailed with fine veins and characteristic crescent moons. A wonderful example of flowing, almost surreal Art Nouveau design. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

These brooches and other fine antique jewels can be found
in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

What's New at Bijoux

2011-01-17T14:29:00.019-05:00

Recent additions to the Bijoux Galleries include several striking engagement rings created for clients, a dramatic pair of earrings and an Opal pendant from two of our favorite crafts people, a custom onyx cameo portrait of a favorite horse, and elegant diamond and platinum cufflinks from the Jazz Age.

Tsavoire Faire! A custom platinum engagement ring featuring a vibrant Tsavorite Garnet and sparkling diamonds.

Mesmerizing! A striking three-diamond ring that beautifully captures the tradition of two becoming one.

Tangerine Sunset! A vibrant orange Spessartite Garnet glows like a tropical sunset at the center of this custom platinum engagement ring. Beautifully hand engraved and accented with brilliant diamonds and a small Demantoid Garnet.

Cristaux Gris Earrings! Crystalline grains of drusy quartz shimmer and sparkle with every move. These dazzling earrings feature a pair of trillium cut gray drusy quartz bezel set within rich 22 karat yellow gold frames, accented by two small round brilliant cut Tanzanites.

Onyx Cameo Horse Brooch Horse lovers will fancy this handsome 18kt yellow gold brooch/necklace featuring a custom carved onyx cameo of a stately horse. If you own a horse or just love horses, this pin/pendant is a "must have". It is also a wonderful concept to commemorate your favorite friend or loved one !

Opal and Moonstone Reverso Slide Pendant Versatile Opal Inlay and Moonstone Reverso Slide Pendant crafted in 18kt yellow gold with nautilus motif. Wear this striking necklace with either the opal or the moonstone facing out, to complement your entire warddrobe. Shown with a platinum round wire omega choker.

Diamond Elegance Elegant early Art Deco cufflinks set with sparkling diamonds. The platinum tops are beautifully engraved and surrounded by laurel wreath borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Additional photos of these and other fine jewels,
can be found at Bijoux Extraordinaire.

Happy Hew Year!

2011-01-01T14:20:00.001-05:00

Cross Roads pendant featuring a fiery Rubellite, blue-green Tourmalines and crystalized gold.

2010 was an exciting and busy year at Bijoux Extraordinaire. 2011 promises to be even more exciting and creative.

To begin the New Year we have added a gallery of custom designed necklaces and pendants that we have created for clients. Here you find imaginative pieces custom crafted in platinum and gold and set with a spectrum of exotic gemstones. Several of the attractions are featured below.

Star Gazer pendant with Amethyst Torus, Demantoid Garnet and diamonds.

Art Deco Sapphire and Asscher-cut Diamond pendant.

Beautifully cut Benitoite set in platinum.

Mystery of the Sphinx pendant with Drusy, Amethyst and Tourmaline.

Striking Riviere Necklace set with 34 carat-plus diamonds and separated by smaller diamonds.

These and other beautiful pendants and can be found in the Custom Necklace Gallery.

We hope everyone enjoys the best of the New Year!

Celtic Knots Custom Wedding Band

2010-01-31T18:49:00.006-05:00

Classic interwoven Celtic Knots were the inspiration for this handsome wedding band. The band was hand crafted in Platinum and 18kt Rose Gold, then hand engraved with two Celtic Knot designs known as the "Love Knot" and the "Tralee Knot".

The patterns in this band were created by an engraver using a technique known as "relief engraving" to remove small portions of the platinum background thereby raising the intricate Celtic Knot designs in high relief. The platinum background was then coated with a blackening material to add further contrast.

Interlocking knot-like patterns appeared as early as Late Roman Empire in 3rd century floor mosaics.

During the 7th century, Celtic artists began creating beautiful objects decorated with endless knots. It is during this period that plaitwork (woven, unbroken cord designs) evolved into broken and reconnected cords that became characteristic of true knot-work. The style gained increased appreciation during the Celtic Revival of the late 1800s and today is most commonly associated with Celtic Art.

The Love Knot design has two intertwining overhand knots that come together
representing two betrothed lovers.

The Tralee Knot pattern is two entwined hearts amidst an infinity-like symbol,
signifying endless love.

To learn more about this Celtic Knot band and other hand-engraved rings, please visit the
Engraved Ring Gallery and Wedding and Anniversary Band Gallery.

Holiday Cufflinks

2009-12-06T11:14:00.005-05:00

Festive Scroll cufflinks in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

The holidays are a time of celebration, tradition and, of course, festive ornaments. Some of the prettiest ornaments in the gallery are not hanging on our tree. They are sparkling in the antique cufflink showcase.

Recently several clients asked me to create custom cufflinks as gifts for their significant other. In researching design ideas I took a look at our collection of antique and estate cuff jewels. The great variety and beauty of cufflinks made in the last century always amazes me. Here is a holiday sampling of what I found ...

Sapphire and Gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

Carter, Howe Moss Agate cufflinks, circa 1910.

Art Deco white gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

Art Deco Onyx and Pearl cufflinks, circa 1930.

Carrington Sapphire and blue enamel cufflinks, circa 1925.

To view these and other elegant cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

In the next several months I will post pictures and descriptions of the custom cufflinks we are creating. Happy holidays to all!

Radiant-cut Sapphire

2009-11-30T15:30:00.000-05:00

1.84 carat Radiant-cut Sapphire

The color of this square radiant cut Sapphire is amazing - a rich, royal blue color that reminds us of the azure waters throughout the Caribbean where history and lore abound, as do buried treasures and beautiful sea creatures.
Deep royal blue can evoke a sense of richness as well as superiority which perhaps is one reason why so many people love the color blue. In fact, of all the colors of sapphire (and there are many varied hues throughout the color spectrum), Blue is by far the most popular.
The cut of this exceptional sapphire is also quite special. Sapphires are typically cut in cushion shapes and sometimes round and oval shapes, especially when the crystal is cut in a major cutting center like Thailand. Radiant cuts are not a common style of cut for sapphire due to the extra weight loss of crystal and the more exacting skill required for this shape. When you see a nice radiant cut, such as this 1.838 carats gem sapphire, you know it is very special indeed. This gem was recut from a larger cushion shape to allow for better proportions, brilliance and color.
You could find another sapphire for less money, but then again, why would you want something of lesser quality. If you want only the finest.....this rich sapphire is the one for you.
Sapphire is the hardest of all the colored gemstones, sitting at a whopping 9 on the Moh's scale of hardness, which makes this gemstone perfect for daily wear. It is no wonder that sapphires are the most preferred colored gemstone for clients asking us to custom design an engagement ring featuring something other than a traditional diamond.

Custom Ring with 1.51 carat Radiant-cut Sapphire

Radiant cut sapphires are special. Pictured above is a crystalline pastel blue sapphire we set for a client in a custom engagement ring. To view this ring and other sapphire rings we have created, please visit our Sapphire Ring Gallery.

Sapphires and Diamonds

2009-11-04T19:20:00.000-05:00

Sapphires and Diamonds are classic gemstones that always go well together. Like the classic couples of the 1930s and 40s - remember Astaire and Rogers ... Bogart and Bacall - they are striking and always make a statement. Here are a few of my favorite Sapphire and Diamond rings.

The bold look and elegant lines of this beautiful emerald-cut Sapphire begged for an Art Deco design. To complement the Sapphire I selected two elongated obelisk-shape diamonds (bullet cuts) and bezel set them in platinum. The unusual cut of the diamonds is echoed in the tapered prongs securing the Sapphire and the raised center-line of the platinum band. The ring is an homage to Egyptian Revival and Art Deco eras, two of my favorite sources of design inspiration.

While Art Deco design emphasizes the beauty of geometric lines and dramatic angles, the above cushion-cut Sapphire suggests other possibilities. Accented with trilliant cut diamonds, the gently curved edges and softened corners of the rich blue Sapphire invite the viewer to get lost in a deep pool of cool crystalline water. The beautiful Sapphire is set in an example of our Sapphire Delight design.

This ring is named Sapphire Luminosity. It incorporates a clear, steely blue Sapphire that luminesces with a shimmering cool blue light. Accenting the oval Sapphire are six baguette diamonds dramatically set into the shoulders of the ring. In the gallery we call this staggered arrangement of the diamonds a "Rockefeller". The name is inspired by the soaring skyscrapers of Rockefeller Center, the Art Deco icon in New York City.

Hand engraving is a classic technique that beautifully complements Sapphires and diamonds. This hand-crafted platinum ring has a wonderful late Edwardian/early Art Deco feel that captures the elegance of a bygone era. Note the gentle millgraining that highlights the edges of the setting and band. When creating a ring there are many varieties of hand engraving from which to choose.

Not all Sapphire rings wear their diamonds on the side. This striking ring features a round Sapphire set in a variation of our Hidden Treasures design. The Sapphire is set with a prong style known as "French Double prongs". The up sweeping shoulders of the platinum ring are creased with a gentle valley and the edges accented with milgraining. As can be seen in the picture below, two diamonds are nestled between the upper and lower gallery of the setting, hence the name "Hidden Treasures".

On either side of the hidden diamonds, small circlets of yellow gold are set in the split shoulders of the upswept band. The golden accents offer a striking contrast to the cool white and blue of the diamonds, Sapphire and platinum. It is these little touches that really make a ring pop.

Our Breathless Rings are a contemporary take on a classic design ... our interpretation of a traditional three-stone ring set with beautiful gemstones and diamonds. This example showcases a soft cushion-shape royal blue Sapphire and round colorless diamonds. The platinum band is gently tapered as it approaches the gemstones. The style is a timeless classic that will surely be enjoyed for many generations. Often when creating a new ring, we like to start with the classics and add a little pizzazz !

These are just a few of my favorite Sapphire and diamond rings. Please visit our Sapphire Ring Gallery to see more of my designs.

If you have any questions about the above Sapphire rings or our other custom designs, please send me an email or give me a call (603 624-8672).

Scintillating 360

2009-06-30T19:20:00.000-04:00

Last month I wrote about the Scintillating Diamonds engagement ring we created for a couple. The ring was crafted in anticipation of a complementing future wedding band. Well the wedding band is done!

Scintillating 360 custom-designed wedding band.

The custom-designed band features 25 round brilliant-cut diamonds set around its entire circumference. The bead-set diamonds are neatly nestled between two crisp, milligrained edges. So no matter how the ring rolls and moves on the finger, you will always see a scintillating display of brilliant white diamonds. We have nicknamed the design Scintillating 360.

Custom engagement ring and wedding band.

We matched the shapes and profiles of the two rings so they would fit snugly against each other. On the engagement ring, the prongs were masterfully tapered in shape and thickness then tucked in beneath the diamond for a narrower profile. This allowed the diamond to be set at a traditional height, slightly above the height of the band, and still have the base of the setting narrower than the width of the band.

A scintillating collection of diamonds.

One of the important steps in creating the wedding band was matching the 25 brilliant diamonds for color, cut and clarity. The goal was ensure the diamonds presented a uniform appearance and perfectly complemented the diamonds in the engagement ring. The result was a success - a scintillating array of sparkling white diamonds.

Scintillating Diamonds

2009-05-25T12:03:00.000-04:00

Scintillate - To throw off sparks. To sparkle or shine. To twinkle as the stars.

Ideal cut round diamonds have a mesmerizing balance of brilliant white light, scintillation and fire (spectral hues). You can actually see light dancing across a well cut diamond as it is moved and turned.

I work with many diamond shapes and styles of cuts and when creating a more traditional look, I prefer the Ideal Round Brilliant cut.

Recently a client hired me to locate a high quality ideal cut round diamond for an engagement ring. After helping him select the best stone, I then worked on creating a ring to best capture the beauty and brilliance of this dazzling diamond.

The shoulders of the ring have seven graduated size, sparkling diamonds bead set within a tapered channel. The edges of the channel are millegrained for added sparkle. When designing with diamonds and platinum the goal is to balance the mirror-like finish of the platinum with the brilliance of the diamonds. When done right the effect is scintillating ..... just like this ring!

The tops of the prongs are polished to a narrow point for dramatic effect. I call these "spear-tip points" and often use them in my ring designs.

The ideal-cut diamond is cradled within four tapered prongs that gracefully rise up from the band of the ring. The prongs are crafted from half round wire that was tapered in gauge from top to base.

The challenge was to create a secure setting for the diamond that would also allow a straight or non-contoured wedding band to fit flush against the ring. Therefore, I made the base of the setting narrow to accomplish a smaller profile. The graceful curve of the prongs is complemented by the gentle upsweep of the shoulders of the ring. Because this ring was custom designed and hand crafted, each of the design elements was created to best match and complement the beauty of the diamonds and meet the client's wishes.

My goal is always to create the perfect balance between beauty, functionality and durablity. These are the neccessary ingredients for a jewel that will past the test of time and become an heirloom for future generations.

I am currently making a matching wedding band for this scintillating diamond engagement ring. I anticipate that the set will be drop dead gorgeous and will garner much attention at the wedding reception ! Stay tuned for an addendum once the wedding band is completed.

To learn more about our Scintillating Diamond Ring, please visit our Diamond Ring Gallery. Other unique designs are featured in our Custom Engagement Ring Gallery.

Tantalizing Tanzanite!

2009-04-03T20:11:00.000-04:00

I have always loved designing with Tanzanite. The gemstone's rich, velvety blue/violet color with flashes of red is reminiscent of lightning in a late evening sky.

Ever since Tanzanite was first discovered in the 1960s, this exotic gemstone has tantalized with its incredibly beautiful colors. To help you decide if Tanzanite is a good choice for your next custom jewel, I answer the following commonly asked questions about this wonderful gemstone.

Are Tanzanites a "soft" gemstone?

Although not as hard as Sapphires and Diamonds, Tanzanites are fine when properly set in jewelry. Because it is not as hard, Tanzanite is more susceptible to scratches, but common sense precautions will protect and preserve the beauty of this striking gemstone.

For example, you should not wear your Tanzanite ring while working in the garden. Of course, you should also remove your Sapphire and Diamond rings when engaged in activities that might lead to a nick or scratch. When not being worn Tanzanite and other jewelry should be stored in individual cloth pouches, so that the gemstones do not inadvertently abraded each other.

Proper jewelry design can also mitigate the risk to your Tanzanite. Tanzanite is often set in less exposed, less active, pieces of jewelry, like earrings and pendants. When setting Tanzanite in a ring it is best to choose a low setting that will help protect the gemstone while showing off its brilliant color. Bezel settings are a wonderful option for setting Tanzanites.

Are Tanzanites becoming rarer?

For all its beauty fine Tanzanite is found in only one place in the world - an inaccessible mine lying in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro. Over-mining, flooding and cave-ins at the mine site have limited the supply of higher quality, larger gems. As the popularity of Tanzanite has increased, the scarcity and cost of finer Tanzanites has risen. But, be aware that not all Tanzanites are equally fine or scarce.

There is an abundant supply of lower quality Tanzanites, often with pale or grayish color and small in size. Commonly offered on home shopping channels and at discount jewelers, these lesser Tanzanites lack the beauty and pizzazz of the finer stones. Be careful! I have seen lower quality Tanzanites offered at the same price as finer gemstones.

Are the striking colors of Tanzanite natural?

Tanzanite is a natural gemstone whose color is enhanced during cutting by a process called "heat treating". When found in nature, Tanzanite crystals are usually a reddish-brown color. The gemstone crystals are heated in order to bring out the rich blue, purple and violet colors we love. The color change is permanent.

A similar heat-treating process has been used for thousands of years to enhance the color of Rubies and Sapphires. If a jeweler or salesperson does not inform you about the heat treatment of Tanzanites and other gemstones, you should probably not be working with them.

There are several man-made and natural materials that simulate the appearance of Tanzanite. One, known as synthetic Fosterite, is grown in a lab and is worth significantly less than Tanzanite. Other gemstones may be treated with films or other agents in an effort approximate the beautiful color of fine Tanzanite. Because these materials may be misrepresented as Tanzanite, it is best to only work with a knowledgeable, reputable seller with a background in gemology. You may want to have your Tanzanite evaluated by a qualified independent gemologist.

Please visit our Tanzanite Ring Gallery where we feature
more of the Tanzanite jewels we have created.

Red Spinel - The Finished Jewel

2009-02-11T16:36:00.000-05:00

In my last post I wrote about some of the beautiful Red Spinels for which I am currently designing jewelry. In this post I will illustrate some of lovely rings I have custom designed for this fiery red natural gemstone.

The above ring is based on my Platinum Promise design and features a 1.90 carats round brilliant cut pinkish-Red spinel and ideal cut diamonds. The ideal cut round side diamonds are a perfect match to the center red spinel. I chose all platinum for this ring since this particular spinel has a crisp, cool shade of red.

In this next ring, based on my Trellis design, I feature a traditional cushion shaped deep red Spinel, set horizontally in platinum prongs with an 18kt rose gold double band. The pinkish cast of the rose gold nicely complements the rich hue of this fire-engine like Red Spinel.

Some time ago I purchased a wonderful pair of larger trillium cut Red Spinels and decided to split the pair and use the gems in different rings. I set one in my Platinum Regal Elegance design and liked it so much that I created a rose gold version with the sister stone.

So whether you prefer the cool white of Platinum or the warmth of Rose Gold, we have it covered with both versions, featuring red spinel. The Rosy Regal Red Spinel Ring features the other trillium red spinel from the pair, set in rich 18kt rose or pink gold with just a hint of colorless diamonds set within the engraved pattern for a touch of sparkling white brilliance.

If you like simpler designs, my Red Spinel Tingle ring is a nice option, showcasing a small emerald cut Red Spinel bezel set in rose gold and accented with small diamonds. This diminutive design can be used as an engagement ring or as a right hand ring. It is the perfect choice for someone with smaller hands.

Arrest-Me-Red is an 18kt yellow gold version of my Hidden Treasures design, set with a vibrant Red Spinel that has that fast red sports car type of hue that is unmistakeable. Just don't get caught speeding down the highway with this exciting ring !

Another favorite theme of mine is Egyptian Motifs which I incorporated in my Rosy Palmette Hand Engraved Band design in 18kt rose gold and platinum. The band showcases beautifully shaped princess cut red spinels, channel set amongst a richly engraved field of Egyptian style palmettes and lotus blossoms.

If Red Spinel is one of your favorite gems, you are in good company; it's one of my favorites too !I do have many more fine red spinels in my inventory, including some lovely matched pairs of ovals and trilliums.

The rings above are available as shown, or you can have a jewel custom made to order with the gem of your choice. If you are looking for exceptional quality and value, be sure to visit my gemstone gallery and ring design portfolio for more ideas.

For more information on these gems and rings, please send me an email or call my office (603-624-8672). I am happy to discuss pricing and design options and help you create the Jewel of your dreams.

Red Spinel - Loose Gems

2009-02-09T00:05:00.000-05:00

1.91-carat Elongated Cushion Red Spinel

I am passionate about Red Spinel. In fact, it is one of my favorite gemstones. Those of you who have read my earlier posts may have already guessed this.

Most often I enter the gemstone markets to help clients acquire the perfect gemstone for a custom design project. But, I also acquire exceptional gemstones for my own interest and as inspiration when creating new designs. And, of course, a number of trusted gem cutters know to always call me when they are cutting something extraordinary. The little tempters! :-)

Here are some of the gorgeous Red, Pink and Flame Spinels I have recently acquired and the jewelry designs I am considering.

This matching pair of emerald-cut Red Spinels is exceptional. I was originally drawn to their stunning vibrant shade of red and beautiful elongated shape. I imagine them set in elegant Art Deco-style earrings crafted in warm 18kt gold or platinum with drops of colored diamonds.

Or possibly an Art Deco-inspired ring set with a large emerald-cut diamond and the two Red Spinels along the sides. The bold shoulders of the ring could be lightened with piercing and accented with gold or platinum filigree work.

When you work closely with beautiful gemstones they often take on a personality. And, of course, I cannot resist giving each of the gemstones nicknames. This dazzling 1.79-carat round Red Spinel reminds me of a glowing red moon in the summer night sky. I just imagine it rising above the horizon on a sultry July evening. So naturally, this gem has become known as "The Red Moon."

This Spinel's rich red hue, classic round cut and brilliant faceting suggest a striking ring. I imagine a variation of our Secret Garden design with fancy cut diamonds and dramatic hand engraving. Or maybe a classic platinum pendant with a brightly engraved bale and gallery set with small sparkling diamonds. Something along the lines of the Benitoite pendant we created several years ago for a client in California.

One of the fun things about being a jewelry designer is that beautiful gemstones always inspire a multiplicity design possibilities.

When viewing Red Spinels I always first consider the color and the shape. Red Spinels are most often cut as cushion-shapes or rounds. This elongated trillium (triangle shape) and the beautiful matching pair of emerald-cuts shown earlier are more unusual shapes and present exciting design opportunities.

This trillium is a vibrant shade of red electrified with flashes of pink and orange. Fine Spinel has a bright, crystalline appearance that allows for amazing, subtle interplays of color. This 1.30-carat gem is a mesmerizing example. I am currently "playing" with design ideas to showcase the gem's unique shape and color. Perhaps a variation of our Regal Elegance design.

Last but not least is this classic cushion-shape Red Spinel. Like the previous trillium, the color of the Spinel is a rich red hue with strong flashes of pink and orange. Because of the strong flashes of secondary orange and pink hues, this variety is known as "Flame Spinel". Another beautiful gemstone and, of course, the beginning of another beautiful jewel!

If you enjoy the rich reds of Rubies, you should consider Red Spinels. The color of Red Spinels is often more crystaline and clearer than Rubies which can be a hazy, sultry red. Fine examples of both gemstones are beautiful, but in different ways. Red Spinel offers a great design alternative.

In my next post, I will share some of the custom rings we have created featuring Red Spinels. Until then, let mek now what you think. How sould you set these vibrant gemstones?

To view more beautiful gems and the custom rings we have created, please visit our Jewelry Gallery.

Platinum Sapphire and Diamond Deco Style Pendant

2009-01-31T23:09:00.001-05:00

I custom design and create many beautiful sapphire engagement rings each year, and when a client is ready to celebrate another special occasion or milestone, I really enjoy the opportunity to create another jewel to mark the event. This striking sapphire pendant is a piece I made for a client that wanted to celebrate just such an occasion.

The necklace is crafted in 95% pure platinum in an Art Deco style with a vibrant blue emerald cut sapphire and stark white Asscher cut diamond. The combination of these striking geometric shapes and the brightly polished platinum create a classic look that was inspired by Art Deco designs of the 1920's and 1930's.

My first task was to find the perfect sapphire for this piece. I worked with many of the finest sapphire cutters in the industry to ensure a good selection of exception gems for my client. The sapphire we chose has an intoxicating blue hue that captures your attention even from across the room. Next, I located a gorgeous D color Asscher cut diamond that was the perfect mate for the sapphire. My client only wanted the best and I think these gemstones and pendant met his goal quite nicely.

We agreed that a domed omega choker would be the best way to wear the pendant. The omega offered a geometric design that nicely complemented the linear look of the pendant while providing excellent support and security for this special piece. The domed omega choker maintains a nicely rounded shape around the neckline that does not pull down into a "V" when worn with a pendant. Instead, the jeweled pendant slides nicely along a smooth, rounded outline that surrounds the neck.

I must admit that I have always admired jewels from the Art Deco Period (1920-1940) and have drawn inspiration for my own designs from this fabulous era in jewelry history. Bold geometric shapes, cool white metals like platinum, bold contrasting colors of blue and white are certainly popular elements of Art Deco jewelry which have certainly been captured in this handsome necklace.

In case you are wondering what their beautiful ring looks like...... take a peek at Blue Flame II Ring which I made when they were expecting "twins".

If you are interested in seeing more examples of jewelry I have custom designed for clients, please check out my portfolio. And if you would like to discuss a custom project, please send me an email.

Blue-Green Tourmaline and Blue Diamond Torus

2009-01-10T20:25:00.000-05:00

Another fabulous gemstone from the Jewelry Expert collection that merits a special jewel is this oval torus ring. The main gem is a stunning blue-green Tourmaline from Afghanistan, cut with negative facets in the pavilion so as to create a dazzling array of brilliance and sparkle. The centerpiece is a natural grayish blue-violet diamond that we bezel set in platinum.

The 8.40 cts oval natural Blue-Green Tourmaline Torus measures 16.9 x 11.9 millimeters; the blue-violet diamond measures 2.15 mm and weighs 0.038 carat. I chose this blue-violet diamond for the center because of it's soft periwinkle color that was a wonderful complement to the verdant hue of the tourmaline.

A special gemstone such as this really deserves an equally special design. Since this is a larger stone, I believe it would work best as a pendant or necklace.

Some time ago I designed a striking necklace for a client in Japan, featuring a round amethyst torus ring and demantoid garnet. My Star Gazer design would be a great option for the oval blue-green tourmaline torus, with some modifications such as an attenuated or more elongated frame.

I was also thinking that instead of a concave diamond shape, perhaps a double outer rim that was also oval shaped and followed the classic outline of the tourmaline with a small round diamond channel set within the outer rim at the north, south, east and west positions. I can also see channel setting a complete line of small round brilliant diamonds forming a series of concentric ovals with the metal work, the diamonds and the torus.

Instead of setting the oval torus tourmaline vertically, it could be oriented horizontally with the pendant designed more as a slide necklace rather than a pendant drop. In this concept, the tourmaline could be set within an oval or cushion shaped yellow gold frame with small trapezoid, bullet or triangular shaped platinum tabs at the four corners, set with small colorless diamonds. The side walls of the frame could either be open and embellished with platinum scrolls or the walls could be solid and hand engraved with a radiating pattern of spikes and lines to create a star-burst effect.

And that leads to another design idea...... and another and yet another.

Sometimes I start with a design idea in my head that takes me on a journey to locate the perfect stone for the creation. But other times, I start first with the selection of a beautiful gemstone that captures my interest and dictates the design.

I must admit that I truly have a passion for exceptional gemstones and these wonders of nature inspire me to design and create jewelry that captivates and intrigues.

That's why I really love my job. So many wonderful ways to feature beautiful gems and create extraordinary jewels that will become a favorite heirloom for generations to come.

Torus rings are also available in round, marquise, pear and sometimes cushion or rectangular shapes. However, most are cut in the round and oval shapes. The talented lapidarist that cuts these stunning beauties often works with blue sapphire, montana sapphire, fancy colored sapphire (violet, pink, yellow and bi-color) as well as tourmaline, aquamarine, tanzanite and amethyst.

If you would like to purchase this fabulous blue-green tourmaline oval torus, please send me an email. I am also happy to discuss possible design options with you for this gorgeous gem.

New Year's Resolution - Designing with Fabulous Gemstones

2009-01-01T20:40:00.000-05:00

It's the beginning of a New Year and with that comes the annual list of resolutions. Of course I have all the regulars on my list, but I have also included some fun items this year. One of my resolutions for 2009 is to design new jewels featuring some stunning torus ring gems I purchased on a buying trip last year.

Above is a gorgeous 1.91 carats marquise shaped fancy purple sapphire set with a vibrant mandarin garnet. The purple sapphire is natural (unheated) and was originally mined in Madagascar. It measures L 12.75 x W 6.6 millimeters. In the center is a 1.8 mm round 0.03 carat mandarin garnet from Namibia.

The simplest way to describe a torus is a sort of doughnut shape or basically a circle within a circle. In fact, the torus is a common form seen throughout nature such as in whirlpools, lunar and solar eclipses, the iris of the human eye and natural phenomena like tornadoes and hurricanes (i.e. the eye of a hurricane).

According to the cutter, each gemstone TorusRing™ is individually carved with negative facets that create unique displays of brilliance. The Torus ring can be done in round, oval and marquise shapes.

I purchased this specific gem because I loved the rich purple hue that danced with light as I moved it around on my hand. I set a vibrant orange mandarin garnet within the center that, in my opinion, is the perfect complement to the lush purple hue of the sapphire.

This unusual gemstone now needs a good jewel to showcase it's dazzling brilliance and beautiful colors. I think that the shape and size of this gem is best suited for a ring design.

One thought I have for a ring design is to bezel set it in 18kt yellow gold with a soft satin finish. The band could be of a simple rounded design and accented with tiny colorless diamonds like my Tingle Ring Design.

Here is an example of a Platinum Tingle Ring I made with a beautiful alpine cut fancy purple sapphire and small colorless diamonds. I love the simplicity of this design, the soft look of the satin finish and the striking cut of the purple sapphire.

Another thought would be a two-tone effect, like my Smooth as Silk design. The ring shown above features a dramatic asscher cut diamond bezel set on the diagonal within a platinum band accented with a yellow gold stripe.

Since the feature stone is purple, I think the reverse pattern of a yellow gold body with platinum stripe would be more approriate, like my Bogota Bling ring design featuring this rare Trapiche Emerald. This ring is mostly 18kt yellow gold with just a narrow stripe of platinum for contrast.

The concept would be to set the marquise shaped purple sapphire vertically along the length of the finger and then accent the shoulders of the band with perhaps some small round diamonds channel set within the platinum stripe.

Perhaps a more rounded band design like the Alpine Tingle ring but with the two-tone effect like the Smooth as Silk ring and a total width somewhere in between the two designs would be a nice look.

Well then there is the more dramatic approach to things, like my Secret Garden design which is really one of my favorites. This is a design that I create in platinum or yellow gold then hand engrave with a rolling scroll and flower pattern which is then treated with a blackening material to provide sharp contrast.

A Secret Garden band style would also allow me to bezel set the marquise shaped purple sapphire horizontally for a more unique look. I would then set mandarin garnets within the centers of the flowers to complement the mandarin garnet in the center of the purple sapphire.

With so many wonderful options from which to choose, perhaps one of my readers will allow me to create a spectactular ring for them featuring this exceptional gemstone.

The cost for this purple sapphire and mandarin garnet torus gem is $3,885.

If you would like to purchase this torus ring and discuss design options, please send me an email.

Now on to my next Resolution ....... another special design of course !!

Montana Sapphire

2008-12-30T17:26:00.000-05:00

1.432 carats Hexagaonal Montana Sapphire

Montana Sapphires are a true American beauty. While they can be found in a variety of colors, most of the sapphires from this locality are in the Blue, Blue-Green and Teal hues. This 1.432 carats hexagonal shaped sapphire is a stunning example of fine grade stones from Montana. I fell in love with the unusual shape combined with the rich blue hue and masterful symmetry.

Some of the trademark characteristics of Montana Sapphires are a more crystalline appearance, high refraction and steely like blue hues. This type of grayish-Blue hue is ideal for platinum settings which beautifully compliment the cooler color of this sapphire. And the highly refractive quality of Montana Sapphire gives the gem a crisp display of spectral hues as the stone moves about freely.

I recently created a striking ring design featuring a similar hexagonal Montana Sapphire. The sapphire in this ring is a little smaller, weighing 1.08 carats and is also a tad lighter.

I call this design Winter Twilight. The focal point of this ring is, of course, this handsome steely blue hexagonal shaped Montana Sapphire.

I burnish set two tapered baguette colorless diamonds on each side to line up with the sides of the sapphire hexagon then added 12 small round diamonds along the face of the ring like twinkling stars at the beginning of the evening twilight in winter. This ring design could easily be worn by either a man or a woman.

If you prefer the more intense shade of the 1.432 carats hexagonal sapphire, it could be featured in a custom crafted ring based on my Winter Twilight design. Or, perhaps another design, like my Engraved Elegance series.

In my Engraved Elegance series, the ring is first hand crafted in platinum with a classic flat-edge design which is then hand engraved with a repeating wheat-like pattern that has always reminded me of Charles Schultz's famous bird, Woodstock's footprints in the snow.

Both the Winter Twilight and Engraved Elegance designs are great options for Montana Sapphire.

To learn more about these rings, please visit the Sapphire Ring Gallery on my website. I am also happy to create a Montana Sapphire jewel with other design elements. Just send me an email to discuss options.

A Trilliant Yellow Diamond

2008-12-21T17:41:00.000-05:00

Several years ago a diamond cutter showed me a beautiful yellow diamond. The stone was a trilliant cut with nicely bowed edges and an intoxicating, glowing shade of yellow. (A trilliant-cut diamond is triangular in shape and sparkles with brilliant faceting.) The cutter knew I could not resist a beautifully cut diamond with exceptional color.

Usually I acquire diamonds as part of a custom design project for a client. Every so often an exceptional stone comes along that I purchase for inventory and create a special jewel to showcase. The trilliant yellow diamond was one of those exceptional stones.

I was inspired by the yellow diamond to create a hand-engraved platinum ring. I selected platinum to complement the brilliance of the diamond. Platinum has a beautiful mirror-like lustre and readily accepts detailed engraving. The shoulders and sides of the ring were hand engraved in a classic chevron pattern.

The diamond is a soft golden yellow reminiscent of a daffodil in the early spring. It weighs 0.87 carats and, because it is a trilliant cut, appears larger than a round stone of similar weight.

This ring was specifically hand crafted and designed for the yellow diamond. Thus I could play with the design to best complement and accentuate the beauty of the diamond. The diamond is set with three prongs crafted of 18kt yellow gold. The prongs rise up from the hand-engraved band while the shoulders of the ring narrow slightly and sweep upward. This creates the illusion that the diamond is floating above the ring.

When creating a ring for a special gemstone I focus on refining and evolving the design so that the finished jewel perfectly complements and showcases the beauty of the gemstone. I strive for a true marriage between the gemstone and its setting. I am very happy with the ring that resulted from this project.

You can view additional photos and details of this ring in our Diamond Rings Gallery.

Sapphire and Diamond Engraved Ring

2008-12-09T23:00:00.000-05:00

Sapphire Lunar Elegance!

An irresistibly blue sapphire requires a special ring. This beautiful oval sapphire is perfectly framed by two crescent-shape diamonds as side stones. The sparkling trilogy of gemstones are set within in a graceful enclosing bezel. The ring is hand engraved and hand crafted in platinum.

My Sapphire Lunar Elegance ring is part of a design series I create with a variety of gemstones and options. The design series "Engraved Elegance" includes solitaire styles as well as traditional three stone layouts. Each ring is hand crafted then beautifully hand engraved with a classic chevron pattern. For an added touch of elegance, the edges of the band are milgrained with a fine bead-like pattern.

Antique style rings, especially when beautifully hand engraved, are as popular as ever. We feature a number of beautifully engraved rings in the Hand Engraved Rings Gallery.

To learn more about this and other beautiful and imaginative Sapphire Rings, please visit our Sapphire Ring Gallery

Diamond Criss Cross Ring

2008-12-04T10:08:00.000-05:00

Recently, I wrote about a Sapphire Criss Cross ring we created in platinum. We received such rave reviews for the Sapphire ring that we went on to create our Criss-Cross design in a larger scale for a gorgeous Old European Cut Diamond. Our diamond version can be made to order with a center diamond that is 2 carats and larger.

Of course if you have a larger diamond in mind, this is a wonderful design to showcase an Old European Cut Diamond or perhaps a Cushion Cut, Asscher Cut or Modern Round Brilliant Cut.

To learn more about the diamond rings we have created,
please visit our Diamond Ring Gallery.

You may also be interested in our Diamond Brokering Service.

Sapphire Criss Cross Ring

2008-12-03T22:09:00.000-05:00

Sapphire Criss-Cross!

Several years ago we acquired a beautiful antique Sapphire ring . The ring was crafted in platinum with flowing prongs that crossed beneath the sapphire as they swept upward. The estate ring quickly sold to a couple in Cambridge, Massachusetts, but the design of the ring continued to intrigue us. So I created a new ring in this antique style, but with a smaller Sapphire. The design is known as "Criss-Cross".

The ring (pictured above) is hand-crafted in platinum and features a bright blue sapphire weighing 1.78 carats. To either side of the sapphire, three brilliant diamonds are bead-set along the shoulders of the ring. The diamonds are framed in box settings with milgrained edges. Beneath the three diamonds, the ring is engraved with a stylized bell flower pattern and the edges milgrained.

Antique style rings, especially when beautifully hand engraved, are as popular as ever. We feature a number of beautifully engraved rings in the Hand Engraved Rings Gallery.

To learn more about this and other beautiful and imaginative Sapphire Rings, please visit our Sapphire Ring Gallery.

Pink Diamonds - Natural Beauties

2008-07-12T02:27:00.001-04:00

This is a platinum and diamond ring I designed, featuring a natural Fancy Intense Purplish-Pink emerald cut diamond. I also incorporated small round colorless diamonds and a striking pair of kite shaped side diamonds to create a dramatic effect for this spectacular pink diamond. The body of the ring is hand fabricated in 95% platinum, with just a hint of 18kt rose gold in the scroll like elements on the face of the setting gallery.

Natural Pink Diamonds are one of nature's true beauties. Most of the finer quality natural pink diamonds are from the Argyle diamond mine in Australia. The Argyle mine is renowned for striking red and pink diamonds.

Fancy color diamonds are graded in nine color classifications:

Faint
Very Light
Light
Fancy Light
Fancy
Fancy Dark
Fancy Intense
Fancy Deep
Fancy Vivid

The finest three classifications - Fancy Intense, Vivid and Deep - are much rarer than the lighter, less saturated grades.

When I am evaluating colored diamonds, I first ascertain what classification of color to apply to the stone, using the 9 basic categories above. Within each color classification there are 10 increments or levels of color. So my next step is to assign a level within the pertinent color classification.

For example, a diamond labeled as Fancy Intense can vary tremendously in the quality of the color. Is it a low fancy intense bordering just Fancy Yellow (i.e. level 1 - 3) or is it a solid Fancy Intense (i.e. level 4 - 6) or perhaps a strong Fancy Intense, approaching the Vivid classification (i.e. level 7 - 10) with level 10 notating the stone is borderline Vivid.

This numerical scale is not a standard nomenclature within the diamond industry, however, it is certainly an unspoken scale often used between diamond cutters, dealers and knowledgeable buyers.

This is a ring I custom designed and created for a client, to showcase a gorgeous oval colorless diamond. I matched up a layout of uniform size fancy intense pink diamonds to create this incredible design. The body of this ring is also custom crafted in 95% platinum, with the channel setting for the pink diamonds lined in 18kt rose gold.

When designing important rings for clients, I am often asked to feature or incorporate rare stones such as natural Pink Diamonds. Locating fine quality pinks is, in itself, a real art because they are so rare. Not all diamond cutters work with pinks, due to their limited supply and high cost. Over the years, I have researched, located and evaluated many very fine pink diamonds while developing a great network of cutters and suppliers that specialize in these rare beauties.

The natural fancy color diamond market is a small niche, not for the faint of heart, because rare stones like these will cost significantly more than colorless diamonds of similar size. And supply will only become even more limited as the Argyle mines work the lower portion of the diamond bearing pipes.

In fact, it is predicted that the main supply of Argyle pink diamonds will dwindle during this year. According to the Argyle Diamond Company, their open pit has a scheduled life to 2008 but they expect a further low grade open pit option in conjunction with the underground option and this underground mine could extend the life of the mine life to 2024.

Considering the short life of this mine and the increased interest in pink diamonds, prices for rough and polished stones will likely continue to escalate.

So what does that mean today? There are still opportunities to purchase rare pink diamonds, but prices have already started to noticeably increase. If you are contemplating purchasing a natural pink diamond in the future, the time to make your investment is now. Prices will most likely continue to go up and possibly at a high rate, unless another source for these spectacular diamonds is found.

If you would like to learn more about natural pink diamonds and some of the jewelry I have created featuring pink diamonds, please visit my diamond ring gallery and website.

I frequently help clients purchase rare pink diamonds which they may add to their loose stone collection or have featured in an exciting custom jewel. To learn more about my diamond brokering service and custom designed jewelry, please send me an email.

Sapphire and Diamond Earrings - Classic Designs

2008-07-11T00:29:00.000-04:00

Sapphires and diamonds are the perfect combination for a classic pair of earrings. My inspiration for these beautiful ear jewels came from dew drops glistening on flowers in the early morning sunlight.

The pear shape sapphires are a rich blue hue that appear to glow with an inner blue flame. Above each pear shape sapphire is a quatrefoil arrangement of marquise diamonds arrenged like four petals in a flower.

The earrings are crafted in platinum and polished to a mirror like finish. They also have a very sturdy construction, with a wire style basket for each stone.

The straight post is attached behind the center of the flower like cluster of marquise diamonds to allow for proper support on the earlobe. This also allows the diamond flower to set on the earlobe for a more dramatic effect, with the sapphires dangling gently beneath the lobe.

These striking drop earrings are just over 1/2" long and 1/4" wide. The two sapphires weigh approximately 1.10 carats each for a combined weight of 2.27 carats. The eight marquise diamonds weigh a total of 0.98 carats. The diamonds have F to G color grades and VS2 to SI1 clarity grades.

Another classic design is this traditional sapphire and diamond cluster stud earring. Each earring features a brilliant round sapphire surrounded by smaller round colorless diamonds. The arrangement of gems forms a starburst effect that really twinkles on the ears !

These are also surdily crafted in platinum and meant to be worn daily. The straight post is centered behind the sapphire for perfect placement on the ear lobe.

These star-shaped earrings measure just over 3/8" from point to opposite point. The two sapphires weigh approximately 0.40 carats each for a combined weight of 0.81 carats. And the sixteen surrounding diamonds weigh a total of 0.62 carats

When shopping for fine quality earrings, you should carefully check the settings and make sure they are carefully crafted and durable. Also examine the backside to see how well the stones are supported. The back and underneath portions of fine quality jewelry should be finished as nicely as the topside.

The quality of the metal is also an important consideration. I prefer platinum over white gold. Platinum is certainly a superior metal and much more durable than white gold. It is also a naturally white metal and does not tarnish.

To learn more about these two pairs of earrings, please visit my earring gallery and check out a wide variety of gemstone earrings and styles. I offer a nice grouping of earrings for sale, including the above sapphire and diamond styles.

Demantoid Garnet

2008-06-30T00:00:00.001-04:00

Demantoid Garnet - 1.50 carats Cushion

This is a stunning Demantoid Garnet that has an incredible vivid green hue with subtle flashes of yellow. It also displays excellent fire and brilliance which are trademarks of finer quality Demantoid.

The finest demantoids are found in the Ural Mountains of Russia which is also the historical original source for this intense green garnet. Demantoid is also found in Namibia and Arizona.

Demantoid is a variety of the Garnet Species Andradite and always occurs in some type of green. The green hue can vary from a yellowish Green (similar to Peridot) to a strong pure green (like emerald). Stones with a lighter body color and leaning towards the yellowish Green hue may also present an array of rainbow colors known as fire. This fire is caused by high dispersion, even greater than what is seen in diamonds. Dispersion or fire is the result of white light reaching the surface of a prism (such as a cut gemstone) and being split into the many spectral hues of light seen in the visible spectrum. What we see is a rainbow effect of colors.

When examining colored gemstones, gemologists also look for clarity features (such as inclusions). Generally, the more inclusions seen in a gemstone, the lower the grade. However, with Demantoid, there is a particular type of inclusion that is much sought after and can actually increase the value of this gem. Such inclusions, known as Horsetail inclusions, are actually byssolite and chrysotile fibers (a form of asbestos crystal). These needle like inclusions can appear as curved golden threads that resemble the tail of a horse.

Gemologists like myself enjoy finding horsetail inclusions in demantoid because they are proof that the gem is natural and a demantoid. Collectors also admire the horsetail inclusions and actually prefer to purchase stones with nicely formed horsetail shaped inclusions.

I just love the rich green hue of this Demantoid as well as it's beautiful cut. This cushion cut has some extra facets at the North, South, East and West positions forming extra points that add a dynamic line to the shape.

This gem would be fabulous in a custom ring design either for a Man or a Woman. The unusual shape and strong color of this demantoid are just perfect for a unique design. The price for this rare beauty is $5,400.

If you would like to add this gorgeous demantoid to your rare gem collection, or perhaps let me create a custom jewel to feature this spectacular garnet, please send me an email.

Mandarin Garnet

2008-06-27T22:55:00.000-04:00

Mandarin Garnet is a very special type of Spessartite Garnet from Namibia. In finer qualities, it displays a vivid orange hue that is reminiscent of Mandarin Oranges. Being a redhead, I am a big fan of Mandarin Garnet and search for stones that exemplify the classic vibrant orange hue of this Namibian beauty.

The above Mandarin is a gem I purchased because of it's fabulous color and exceptional cutting. It is a trillium shaped concave facetted cut that has just the right color combined with a dazzling array of brilliance.

And this spectacular gem is au natural .... meaning it has not been heat treated or enhanced. It weighs 3.12 carats and measures 9 mm .

Here's a picture of how the gem looks against the hand.......just gorgeous, don't you agree?

I think this stone is perfect for an exciting custom ring design but I can also see it featured in a striking pendant or necklace design.

When I purchase gemstones for my inventory and designing box, I look for stones that have exceptional color and cut....but I also seek out stones that have unusual shapes and styles of cut. My design ideas are often inspired by the gem itself and I like to build a jewel that focuses attention on the unique qualities of the gemstone.

This Mandarin Garnet is available and the price is only $2,850. If you are a fan of Mandarin Garnet and would like to purchase this stone and work with me on a custom made jewel, please send me an email.

Spessartite Garnet Medicine Wheel Gem

2008-06-26T00:00:00.000-04:00

4.18 carats Spessartite Garnet Medicine Wheel

This is a vibrant Spessartite Garnet from Nigeria, cut as a Medicine Wheel. I just love the brilliant orange hue of this dazzling gem, combined with the unusual facetting that creates a dramatic pattern.

I am often inspired to create a new design when I find a striking stone, such as this 4.18 cts Spessartite. The notches at the four points along the circumference would look lovely set with small triangular or round yellow sapphires, diamonds or tourmalines. What a fabulous combination !

The size of this spessartite (9.4 mm) would work best as a pendant, however, a ring could also be created with this stone, for someone that enjoys larger scale ring designs.

Another great feature of our Spessartite Medicine Wheel is that it is completely natural.....no treatments of enhancements, which in the gemstone world is quite an accomplishment !

If you find this striking spessartite enticing, it is available through our website gallery for $4,885.

There are endless design possibilities for this fabulous gem and I would love to help you create an exciting jewel featuring our Medicine Wheel Spessartite. Just send me an email to discuss options.

Benitoite

2008-06-25T00:16:00.000-04:00

1.83 carat Benitoite - Fancy Trillium Shape

This is a gorgeous Benitoite I purchased a few years ago. The color was breathtaking, the fire intoxicating and the shape mesmerizing. Benitoite is one of my favorite gems, not only because it is so rare, but also because it can be seen in deep blue hues with subtle flashes of fire caused by an optical property known as dispersion.

Benitoite (pronounced "beh-NEE-toe-ite") is a rare gem that was first discovered in 1906 along the headwaters of the San Benito River in San Benito County, California. This small region is the only source in the world for gem quality Benitoite. Because of its rarity and beauty, Benitotite was adopted as California's state gemstone in 1985.

Benitoites have often been mistaken for fine blue sapphires and spinels due to their rich blue-violet colors. Benitoites tend to be found in smaller sizes with gems larger than one carat being the exception. Larger gems with rich color and exceptional quality are greatly prized by collectors.

My designs are often inspired by the gem itself and this lovely Benitoite is a great example of that. I designed a simple pendant with an antique flair, hand crafted in platinum then hand engraved with an Art Deco style pattern I call "Engraved Elegance". I added a few small diamond sprinkles to contrast with the rich deep hue of this Benitoite.

I hope you like the result of my love for this rare gem and the design it inspired.

This pendant has already been sold, however, I often work with clients seeking rare gems like Benitoite and help them purchase something truly special for their collections. I have to admit that being a "gemologist geek", one of the best aspects about my job is working with rare and unique gemstones.

Here is another fabulous Benitoite I sold a while back to a collector. This truly was a specialy stone.....musuem quality in terms of size and color.

If you would like to purchase a fine quality Benitoite, please send me an email to discuss options and pricing.

Golden Metamorphoses Brooch

2008-05-27T22:23:00.000-04:00

A special event should be celebrated with a special jewel. I recently designed this brooch for a client to celebrate his wife's birthday.

The focal point of the brooch is a jet black Drusy Psilomelane that shimmers and sparkles with a myriad of tiny crystals. The bezel setting for the Psilomelane and the frame of the brooch are crafted in brightly polished 18kt yellow gold. The crystallized 24kt gold body of the brooch forms the wings of this stunning design.

We bezel set Fancy Intense Pink diamonds in 18kt rose gold and Fancy Intense Yellow diamonds in 18kt yellow gold to complement the warm hue of the crystalline gold and capped off the design with a colorless diamond set in platinum.

It is my belief that the back of a jewel should be as exciting and beautifully crafted as the front. The 18kt gold back of the brooch is pierced with a dramatic arabesque pattern. Custom designing and hand crafting a fine jewel like this allows me to ensure that there is no skimping on the design, craftsmanship or materials. The true quality of an exceptional jewel can always be seen in the small, often hidden details.

If you would like more details on this dramatic brooch,
please visit The Golden Metamorphoses Gallery

The Great Ruby Hunt - Part IV

2008-05-26T14:33:00.000-04:00

The Great Ruby Hunt

Part IV - The Final Touches

In Parts I, II and III we selected the gemstones and began crafting a custom engagement ring and wedding band for a client. Now the ring and band are ready for the final touches - hand engraving the bright platinum surfaces and setting the center Ruby.

I discussed with the client several patterns of engraving as well as different engraving techniques (bright cut, relief, punch, etc.). She decided on our Regal Elegance pattern interspersed with small engraved flowers and surrounded by a milgrained border. This combination of design elements nicely complements the shape of her ring and band, as seen in the photos below.

If you closely examine the above photo you will see small striations or vertical lines along the inside of the center setting. These are minute saw marks from when our platinum smith hand-crafted the mounting - an indication that the setting was hand made, not cast.

The wedding band was hand engraved to match the engagement ring. The above photo shows the flowing leaf-like pattern along the sides of the band, as well as the cut-out at the apex of the band which allows a close fit with the engagement ring.

As mentioned earlier, the client wanted an engagement ring that was wide on top, but she was concerned that the ring might look and feel heavy on her small hand. I suggested tapering the width and depth of the band towards the base of the ring. We also polished a slight bevel around the inside edges of the ring to create a more comfortable fit. This solution accomplished the best of both worlds: our client would have the bold look of a wider ring along with a comfortable fit. The photos above and below show the taper of the width and depth of the ring towards its base.

When the hand engraver had completed his task, the next craftsman, the gem setter, was ready to set the center Ruby. First he carved a small groove (or "seat") along the inside wall of each prong. This "seat" creates a niche to support the outermost edge (or "girdle") of the gemstone.

A skilled setter creates a seat that is just deep enough to properly support the gemstone, but not so deep that it weakens the prong. An over cut prong will compromise the integrity of the setting. After the seats were carefully cut our gem setter placed the Ruby within the prongs and carefully pushed over the tip of each prong until the Ruby was securely and safely held in its setting.

The Ruby is set slightly above the trilliant diamonds so that it neatly overlaps the diamonds, creating a brilliant line of sparkling gemstones. Just what you want for a beautiful and unique custom engagement ring and wedding band.

After assembling a fabulous layout of gemstones, working with our client through various design options, and hand crafting the ring, the final result is a stunning engagement ring and wedding band that not only showcases her beautiful Ruby, but also features a dazzling pair of trilliant diamonds and beautiful hand engraving. Her ring and band are truly miniature masterpieces......works of Art!

There are many steps involved in creating a beautiful jewel of lasting quality and beauty, but the finished piece is definitely worth the time and care we take to create a ring you will admire and enjoy for many years.

Tell me what you think of this design. If you have any questions about Rubies, the ring, or how the design can be tailored to your own lifestyle and taste, just send me an email !

Judi

The Great Ruby Hunt - Part III

2008-05-26T00:06:00.000-04:00

The Great Ruby Hunt

Part III - Crafting the Ring

In The Great Ruby Hunt I and II, the focus was on how I helped a client find the perfect Ruby for her custom engagement ring. Once the Ruby had been found, the next steps were to finalize the design and craft the ring.

When custom designing a jewel the best place to start is with jewels and design elements you already admire. After reviewing our design portfolios and the rings at our gallery, the client identified three elements that she particularly liked.

1. Engraving - She was drawn to the rich elegance and intricate patterns of our hand-engraved rings She admired the the flowing Flowers and Scrolls pattern and our dramatic Engraved Elegance design, but she absolutely fell in love with the cascading richness of our Regal Elegance design.

2. Side Stones - She also admired the way the trilliant diamonds were set flush with the shoulders in our Cool Ice ring. She liked how the trilliants were tucked slightly beneath the center diamond and appeared to flow into the platinum band of the ring.

3. Ring Shape - Last but not least, she loved the low profile of the gemstones in our Cool Blue Design as well as the tapered width of the band. She enjoys outside activities and felt the low profile of the ring would be perfect for her active life style.

We discussed these and other elements and came up with a ring design inspired by the elegant, dramatic rings of the Art Deco era. The resulting ring is pictured above.

Once the design had been finalized, the next step was to find the perfect pair of trilliant-cut diamonds. I examined about twenty pairs of trilliants. The diamonds needed to complement one another, and also the center Ruby.

I wanted the trilliants to fit within the beveled corners of the Ruby. The goal was to create a continuous line from the slanted corners of the Ruby, along the straight edges of the trilliants, to the outer points of the diamonds burnish set in the band of the ring. This would create a dramatic tapered look which would perfectly accent the elegant shape of the Ruby.

After matching up a stunning pair of D-color trilliant-cut diamonds, it was time to begin crafting the ring.

When creating a special ring the quality of the workmanship is as important as the beauty of the gemstones and the design. In creating this ring we worked with three different craftsmen - a master platinum smith to build the ring, a talented hand engraver and an experienced gem setter. Each is a master of their craft and a talented artist in their own right.

Our platinum smith crafted the ring in three steps:

First, he took a small solid block of platinum and, like a sculptor, carved out the upper and lower galleries of the mounting. By carving the setting from a single piece of platinum our platinum smith was able to shape and adjust the mounting so that it perfectly matched the shape and size of the Ruby. This approach assured that the mounting is sturdy and securely protects the gemstone.

Next, the platinum smith crafted the prongs from flat-edge platinum stock. He polished the prongs along their length to create a narrow taper towards the base. We then asked the platinum smith to add a slight crease or recess along the outer surface of the prongs. This added a little contrast to the bright surfaces of the prongs and emphasized the linear design.

Finally, our platinum smith crafted the band (or "shank") of the ring. He hand built the band with flat surfaces and slightly rounded edges to give the engraver a good working surface. At the slightly flared shoulders of the band, he carved triangular recesses for the trilliant diamonds. The recesses were shaped so the diamonds would angle slightly downward and flow into the pattern of the engraving. Because the ring was hand-crafted we were able to adapt the design to the specific size and shape of the gemstones and pay close attention to the small details.

Our client also wanted to create a wedding band in the same style. So, our platinum smith crafted a platinum band that matched the flat surfaces and profile of the ring. Then he carefully carved out a section at the top of the band, so that the engagement ring would nestle up closely against the band. The best time to create a contoured wedding band is when the engagement ring is being crafted. This assures the best fit between the two rings.

When wearing a straight band against an engagement ring, there is often friction between the two rings resulting in possible wear to the setting. A custom-fit contoured band greatly reduces the friction between the rings.

Notice how closely fitted the two rings rest against each other. This creates a more comfortable wearing ensemble, but it also helps to minimize the wear and tear on the two rings.

Hand crafting a ring is an "old school" technique that requires exceptional (the finest) craftsmanship and patience. The time it takes to create a truly custom ring from scratch is rewarded in the final jewel.

If you have any questions about how we work with clients on custom projects, please send me an email.

The Great Ruby Hunt - Part II

2008-05-25T23:26:00.000-04:00

The Great Ruby Hunt

Part II - The Hunt Continues

We were working with a client who wanted to create a striking Ruby and Diamond engagement ring. After evaluating a number of beautiful Rubies and assembling a strong grouping, the next step was to review the gemstones with the client and help her select the best Ruby for the ring.

The color of a gemstone can be described in terms of Hue, Tone and Saturation. Part of my task is to evaluate these components of color and help client's understand the subtle differences. My goal is to make sure that the client can make an educated, informed decision when purchasing a gemstone.

The human eye has difficulty seeing and remembering subtle differences in color, especially if you are looking at only one or two gemstones at a time. The best way is to examine and compare a number of gemstones all at once .... the more gems the better! Below is the dazzling array of Rubies I assembled for my client to review.

With a large number of gemstones the initial lineup can be overwhelming. After all, each of the gems is beautiful ... just in different ways.

The client was looking for a Ruby with a classic pure Red color. So, first I helped the client identify the Ruby that was the purest Red. Then we identified the Rubies with the strongest orangy Red and purplish Red hues. With these three gems as color benchmarks, we compared the remaining Rubies to determine where they fell on the color spectrum from orangy Red to Red to purplish Red.

By comparing a large number of Rubies all at once, my client was able to see how varying amounts of orange and purple affect a Ruby's color. Even more important she was able to decide which shade of red appealed to her most.

We used a similar technique to evaluate and compare the Saturation and Tone of each of the Rubies, creating benchmarks with the least and most saturated (intense) stones and then the stones with the lightest and darkest tones. This allowed our client to see how subtle differences in Saturation and Tone would affect the beauty of her Ruby.

After reviewing the Hue, Saturation and Tone of each Ruby, the client narrowed the initial field of nineteen Rubies to the following seven. These are the Rubies with color that really grabbed her!

The next step was to consider the Cut and Clarity of each of the Rubies. When evaluating a Ruby, Color is the most important factor. The Cut and Clarity are not insignificant, but they are less important than Color in determining value.

Rubies are often native cuts. This means the gems were cut at the source and tend to be cut more for weight and size than beauty. Some gemstone dealers will re-cut the stones they import; however, this is not the norm as it can be risky and costly. When judging the cut of a Ruby you want to note and avoid obvious windows, areas of extinction, misaligned facets, significantly asymmetrical shaped stones, and poor polishing. Improper cutting can affect the value, as well as durability of a gem.

Our client desired an emerald-cut Ruby, but would also consider an oval or cushion-shape stone if it was just the right color. After considering the cut characteristics of each of the remaining Rubies, our client narrowed the field to the following four - two emerald cuts and two oval brilliant-cuts.

The last factor to consider in evaluating Rubies is Clarity. Rubies are in the Type II Clarity Classification which means they typically occur with inclusions. Nearly flawless Rubies are extremely rare and expensive. A flawless Ruby can be rarer than a flawless diamond. Stones with inclusions that are very easy to see under 10x magnification and possibly visible to the naked eye are graded Very Slightly Included (VS) provided the inclusions are not too numerous and do not affect transparency or durability of the stone.

As with Cut, the Clarity grade does not appreciably affect the value of a stone except for flawless and heavily included examples. It is important to analyze the Clarity grade for several reasons:

1. It helps rate the relative quality and value of stones in a group.

2. Inclusions help confirm that a stone is natural and not synthetic. We only work with natural gems.

3. Inclusions can provide evidence of fracture-filling and heat treatment, which in turn affect rarity and value.

After reviewing all of the features of the remaining four Rubies, our client made the final choice. So which Ruby did she select? You may have already guessed, from the several hints I dropped.

................(drum roll).................

The winner is a 1.58 carat emerald cut with distinctively beveled corners. She loved the nearly pure Red hue of this Ruby, combined with the dramatic geometry of the cut and the stones silky appearance.

We started with 19 beautiful Rubies and through a process of careful elimination found the Ruby that best matched our client's desires. When hunting for an important gemstone it is worth taking the time to view and closely examine an array of gems. In this way you can find the best stone for your custom ring or jewel.

Now that our client has found the perfect Ruby, what's next? The whole process began with our client's desire for a rich red Ruby set in an engraved ring like the ones she had admired on our web site. We still needed to finalize the design, select the side diamonds and hand craft the ring. But that is the discussion for next time. Not to worry ..... I will not leave you hanging too long. Please check back soon for the rest of the story.

Egyptian Lotus of the Nile Ring Design

2008-03-02T23:12:00.001-05:00

This is my Lotus of the Nile Ring design which features a vibrant turquoise colored natural Gem Silica cabochon and two small round colorless diamonds. I have long admired ancient Egyptian motifs as well as Egyptian Revival designs of the Victorian and Art Deco eras. So naturally I was inspired by this love of Egyptian motifs and incorporated a stylized lotus blossom in this ring.

The feature gem (Gem Silica) is cradled within two stylized palmettes that are formed from the ribbed band. The vibrant color of the Gem Silica is reminiscent of turquoise that was used in ancient Egypt.

The ribbed band, stylized lotus blossoms, palmettes and cross-bars at the shoulders are elements that are seen in ancient Egyptian art and design.

To learn more about my designs and jewelry creations, please visit my website JewelryExpert.com

Recent Designs by Judith Anderson and The Jewelry Experts

2008-03-01T14:34:00.000-05:00

Here are some of my recent designs. Each of these pieces is hand crafted and/or custom made from scratch with a variety of fabulous and exciting colored gemstones. I work mainly in platinum, 18kt yellow gold and 18kt rose gold.

To see more of my creations, please visit my website

The Great Ruby Hunt I

2008-02-14T10:54:00.000-05:00

The Great Ruby Hunt

Part I - The Hunt Begins

We made the above Ruby and Diamond ring for a client who wanted to create an exceptional engagement ring. The first step in the project was to discuss and develop with the client an initial design of the ring. Once the initial design was decided upon, we turned to the second most important task, helping our client find a gorgeous Ruby for the stone. Fortunately, we offer a Gemstone Research Service to help clients find and purchase just the right gemstone for their custom rings.

I thought it would be helpful to describe the process we follow when helping clients locate and evaluate gemstones for their custom design projects.

The first step is to help the client decide what characteristics of the gemstone are most important. For the Ruby and Diamond ring the client wanted a Ruby that was a classic Emerald-cut and about 1 ½ carats in weight. She would also consider beautifully cut oval and cushion shape stones. But, her most important criteria was the color. She desired a Ruby that was a classic pure red.

Once the specifics of the desired gem were set, I interviewed a number of fine Ruby dealers and cutters about the stones available in the marketplace. These gem dealers know our exacting standards and presented their best stones. The Rubies that best fit the client's criteria were selected and shipped to our gallery.

As each Ruby arrived, it was closely examined in our gemological laboratory. Several of the gemstones did not make the initial cut and were returned to the gem dealers. Our goal is to present only the very best gems to the client.

When performing a detailed analysis of a gemstone, I examine each of the important components that contribute the gems beauty and value. With colored gemstones, like Ruby, the most important component is the color grade which can comprise 90% of a stone's value.

When I evaluate the color of a gemstone, I consider three components: the gem's Hue, Tone and Saturation.

Hue is the actual spectral color of a gem. Our client desired a pure red Ruby; however natural Rubies are rarely a single color. Most rubies are a blend of two or more colors. Rubies can be a pure red, or be modified by orange or purple, the colors that lie on either side of red on the color wheel. At this stage, my job was to eliminate the Rubies with an overly modified color.

The second component of the color grade, Tone, relates to the lightness or darkness of the color. Some gemstones are found within a narrow range of tones, while others can occur in a full range of tones from nearly colorless to nearly black. The goal is to find the right tone based on the client's preference. Some people prefer a lighter pinker shade of red, while others desire a darker stone. Our goal is to find the best stone that meets the client's desires.

While there are many honest people in the gemstone industry, I err on the side of caution and independently verify a gem's quality grades. Some dealers will misrepresent the color grade in order to sell the gem to a less knowledgeable buyer. Our job is to ensure that the gemstones considered by the client have been accurately described and fairly evaluated.

For example, one of the alleged Rubies sent to us by a cutter had a lighter tone that, in my opinion, placed it into the Fancy Pink Sapphire Category. The dealer had represented it as a Ruby, but as you can see in the above photo, the Princess cut gem on the left is quite pink. And while this is a beautiful gem in its own right, it is not what the client desired, and it did not warrant the name "Ruby" nor the same per carat price as a true Ruby color.

The third color component is Saturation (sometimes called Intensity). Saturation is critical to a gemstones overall color grade. This is the purity of the color .... the Ooomph, the Pizzazz. The intensity of warm colors (like Orange and Yellow) tend to be weakened by degrees of brown, while cooler colors (like Blue or Violet) tend to be modified by gray. At the lowest saturation level the gem appears brown or gray. At the top saturation level the gemstone really pops with vivid color.

In my next post I will describe how we worked with the client through the process of reviewing the subtle differences in Hue, Tone and Saturation that affect the beauty of a gem and how we helped our client select the best Ruby for her ring. Be sure to come back for the "The Great Ruby Hunt - Part II".

And, of course, if you have any questions or comments, please let me know.

Minerals - Selenite

2008-02-13T22:34:00.000-05:00

While I love designing and creating beautiful jewelry featuring colored gemstones, I also love finding and collecting nature's natural jewels.....mineral specimens.

This is a striking Selenite crystal specimen I found at the Tucson gem and mineral shows a couple of years ago.

Selenite is a form of Gypsum which is a more common mineral species. Gypsum generally forms by the sedimentary process and is often found in large massive beds that have precipitated from waters high in saline content.

Selenite is the colorless and transparent variety of Gypsum that also displays a pearly luster. The origin of the word Selenite comes from the Greek word for Moon. And you can certainly see why this mineral was called Moon Rock by early Greeks.....it shimmers like moonlit rippling water on a lake.

Hook shaped selenite crystals like this one are really dramatic in appearance and quite collectible. Minerals specialists call this type of long thin specimen with bends "Ram's Horn Selenite."

You must be careful when handling Selenite as it is a fragile mineral and only has a hardness 2 which means you can scratch it with your fingernail.

More common forms of the mineral gypsum are used in drywall and plaster of paris. Because it is a natural insulator Gypsum, it helps drywall resist fire for a while.

Platinum Amethyst Stargazer Pendant

2008-02-10T19:15:00.000-05:00

Amethyst and Demantoid Torus Ring

This is a stunning Amethyst Torus ring we bezel set with a brilliant green demantoid garnet. The amethyst was from Bolivia and custom cut by American Lapidarist Glenn Lehrer.

There is a wonderful arrangement of various hues and tones of purple, along with flashes of orangy yellow throughout this Bolivian beauty. The demantoid has a lush vibrant green hue that imparts a fantastic contrast to the rich purple amethyst.

A client of mine fell in love with this exceptional gem and hired me to custom create a pendant/necklace featuring the amethyst torus ring.

I came up with a convex shaped diamond frame crafted in platinum and then bezel set the torus ring in 18kt yellow gold for contrast. At the four corners I bezel set a smaller round diamond.

My inspiration for this design was influenced by my client's interest in stars and the heavenly bodies.

I think the Stargazer necklace captures the light of the north star and points the way for enterprising travelers.

You can learn more about this stunning pendant and see more photos of my Stargazer Pendant Design on the Jewelry Expert.com website.

Platinum Aquamarine Ring

2008-02-07T20:14:00.000-05:00

Alluring Aquamarine

Recently a client asked us to create an engagement ring featuring an aquamarine. We tend to get more requests for sapphires and diamonds so when he asked for a nice aquamarine to be the focal point of a custom ring, my design cog wheels started turning. This was my opportunity to work with a gem that is not only clear and crystalline, but also a lovely shade of sea and sky like blue.

Aquamarines bring to mind the striking designs of the Art Deco era.....one of my personal favorites for jewelry inspiration. I love the cool crisp sky blue color of aquamarine, especially when accented with white diamonds and platinum. And I happen to have just the perfect stone in our safe; a lovely square emerald cut fine aquamarine with neatly beveled corners. After several email discussions with the client an initial image of the ring - a bold combination of square shapes enveloped in platinum.

Once I formed the basic idea for the Alluring Aquamarine Design, the next step was matching up the best size of princess cut diamonds for a symmetrical layout.
The result - a striking center Aquamarine within the center of a crisp row of brilliant white square diamonds. A wide band with highly
polished mirror like finish formed the body of the ring, but my favorite touch was the square shaped platinum we used for the prongs.
Our platinum smith took flat edge stock and polished it to create a neat taper from the top to the base of the head. He then polished sharp spear-head shaped points at the tips of the prongs - a dramatic detail - like an exclamation point !

Finally he formed the prongs and the head with an outward splay for flare and the final "ta-dah". These details and extra touches are what I often refer to as the "toute fini". But many of our clients simply call these the "Jewelry Expert touch". I am flattered to hear this and really appreciate all the complements we receive every day. But my greatest joy is when a client tells me the story of how they presented our creation to the recipient, and of course, their excitement upon receiving an original design from the Jewelry Experts at
Bijoux Extraordinaire Ltd.

The polish, finish and symmetry in the underside of a ring is one of the things I pay close attention to...and believe me, there are many items I pay close attention to; I am a detail oriented person. I have always believed that the hidden parts of a fine quality jewel should be finished just as nicely as the top. A highly skilled craftsmen will pay close attention to the underside and spend as much time finishing the inside as the outside. This is the mark of a true master jeweler.

Of course each piece I design and create must be tested for comfort and wearability. So naturally I get to road test everything I create. What a great job I have....to not only create beautiful jewels for our clients, but to also try them on and make sure they fit well and look great on the hand. It's one of the highlights of my day, trying on a new jewel fresh off the jeweler's bench! To learn more about this ring, please visit Alluring Aquamarine.

Platinum and Tourmaline Ring with Japanese Koi

2008-02-04T10:07:00.000-05:00

Being Koi !

I just created this ring in platinum and it features a gorgeous blue-green tourmaline. The design is called "Being Koi".

Here's another view of the ring showing the Koi (Japanese Goldfish)
swimming along the shoulders.