Red Spinel - The Finished Jewel

In my last post I wrote about some of the beautiful Red Spinels for which I am currently designing jewelry. In this post I will illustrate some of lovely rings I have custom designed for this fiery red natural gemstone.

The above ring is based on my Platinum Promise design and features a 1.90 carats round brilliant cut pinkish-Red spinel and ideal cut diamonds. The ideal cut round side diamonds are a perfect match to the center red spinel. I chose all platinum for this ring since this particular spinel has a crisp, cool shade of red.

In this next ring, based on my Trellis design, I feature a traditional cushion shaped deep red Spinel, set horizontally in platinum prongs with an 18kt rose gold double band. The pinkish cast of the rose gold nicely complements the rich hue of this fire-engine like Red Spinel.

Some time ago I purchased a wonderful pair of larger trillium cut Red Spinels and decided to split the pair and use the gems in different rings. I set one in my Platinum Regal Elegance design and liked it so much that I created a rose gold version with the sister stone.

So whether you prefer the cool white of Platinum or the warmth of Rose Gold, we have it covered with both versions, featuring red spinel. The Rosy Regal Red Spinel Ring features the other trillium red spinel from the pair, set in rich 18kt rose or pink gold with just a hint of colorless diamonds set within the engraved pattern for a touch of sparkling white brilliance.

If you like simpler designs, my Red Spinel Tingle ring is a nice option, showcasing a small emerald cut Red Spinel bezel set in rose gold and accented with small diamonds. This diminutive design can be used as an engagement ring or as a right hand ring. It is the perfect choice for someone with smaller hands.

Arrest-Me-Red is an 18kt yellow gold version of my Hidden Treasures design, set with a vibrant Red Spinel that has that fast red sports car type of hue that is unmistakeable. Just don't get caught speeding down the highway with this exciting ring !

Another favorite theme of mine is Egyptian Motifs which I incorporated in my Rosy Palmette Hand Engraved Band design in 18kt rose gold and platinum. The band showcases beautifully shaped princess cut red spinels, channel set amongst a richly engraved field of Egyptian style palmettes and lotus blossoms.

If Red Spinel is one of your favorite gems, you are in good company; it's one of my favorites too !I do have many more fine red spinels in my inventory, including some lovely matched pairs of ovals and trilliums.

The rings above are available as shown, or you can have a jewel custom made to order with the gem of your choice. If you are looking for exceptional quality and value, be sure to visit my gemstone gallery and ring design portfolio for more ideas.

For more information on these gems and rings, please send me an email or call my office (603-624-8672). I am happy to discuss pricing and design options and help you create the Jewel of your dreams.

Red Spinel - Loose Gems

1.91-carat Elongated Cushion Red Spinel

I am passionate about Red Spinel. In fact, it is one of my favorite gemstones. Those of you who have read my earlier posts may have already guessed this.

Most often I enter the gemstone markets to help clients acquire the perfect gemstone for a custom design project. But, I also acquire exceptional gemstones for my own interest and as inspiration when creating new designs. And, of course, a number of trusted gem cutters know to always call me when they are cutting something extraordinary. The little tempters! :-)

Here are some of the gorgeous Red, Pink and Flame Spinels I have recently acquired and the jewelry designs I am considering.

This matching pair of emerald-cut Red Spinels is exceptional. I was originally drawn to their stunning vibrant shade of red and beautiful elongated shape. I imagine them set in elegant Art Deco-style earrings crafted in warm 18kt gold or platinum with drops of colored diamonds.

Or possibly an Art Deco-inspired ring set with a large emerald-cut diamond and the two Red Spinels along the sides. The bold shoulders of the ring could be lightened with piercing and accented with gold or platinum filigree work.

When you work closely with beautiful gemstones they often take on a personality. And, of course, I cannot resist giving each of the gemstones nicknames. This dazzling 1.79-carat round Red Spinel reminds me of a glowing red moon in the summer night sky. I just imagine it rising above the horizon on a sultry July evening. So naturally, this gem has become known as "The Red Moon."

This Spinel's rich red hue, classic round cut and brilliant faceting suggest a striking ring. I imagine a variation of our Secret Garden design with fancy cut diamonds and dramatic hand engraving. Or maybe a classic platinum pendant with a brightly engraved bale and gallery set with small sparkling diamonds. Something along the lines of the Benitoite pendant we created several years ago for a client in California.

One of the fun things about being a jewelry designer is that beautiful gemstones always inspire a multiplicity design possibilities.

When viewing Red Spinels I always first consider the color and the shape. Red Spinels are most often cut as cushion-shapes or rounds. This elongated trillium (triangle shape) and the beautiful matching pair of emerald-cuts shown earlier are more unusual shapes and present exciting design opportunities.

This trillium is a vibrant shade of red electrified with flashes of pink and orange. Fine Spinel has a bright, crystalline appearance that allows for amazing, subtle interplays of color. This 1.30-carat gem is a mesmerizing example. I am currently "playing" with design ideas to showcase the gem's unique shape and color. Perhaps a variation of our Regal Elegance design.

Last but not least is this classic cushion-shape Red Spinel. Like the previous trillium, the color of the Spinel is a rich red hue with strong flashes of pink and orange. Because of the strong flashes of secondary orange and pink hues, this variety is known as "Flame Spinel". Another beautiful gemstone and, of course, the beginning of another beautiful jewel!

If you enjoy the rich reds of Rubies, you should consider Red Spinels. The color of Red Spinels is often more crystaline and clearer than Rubies which can be a hazy, sultry red. Fine examples of both gemstones are beautiful, but in different ways. Red Spinel offers a great design alternative.

In my next post, I will share some of the custom rings we have created featuring Red Spinels. Until then, let mek now what you think. How sould you set these vibrant gemstones?

To view more beautiful gems and the custom rings we have created, please visit our Jewelry Gallery.

Platinum Sapphire and Diamond Deco Style Pendant

I custom design and create many beautiful sapphire engagement rings each year, and when a client is ready to celebrate another special occasion or milestone, I really enjoy the opportunity to create another jewel to mark the event. This striking sapphire pendant is a piece I made for a client that wanted to celebrate just such an occasion.

The necklace is crafted in 95% pure platinum in an Art Deco style with a vibrant blue emerald cut sapphire and stark white Asscher cut diamond. The combination of these striking geometric shapes and the brightly polished platinum create a classic look that was inspired by Art Deco designs of the 1920's and 1930's.

My first task was to find the perfect sapphire for this piece. I worked with many of the finest sapphire cutters in the industry to ensure a good selection of exception gems for my client. The sapphire we chose has an intoxicating blue hue that captures your attention even from across the room. Next, I located a gorgeous D color Asscher cut diamond that was the perfect mate for the sapphire. My client only wanted the best and I think these gemstones and pendant met his goal quite nicely.

We agreed that a domed omega choker would be the best way to wear the pendant. The omega offered a geometric design that nicely complemented the linear look of the pendant while providing excellent support and security for this special piece. The domed omega choker maintains a nicely rounded shape around the neckline that does not pull down into a "V" when worn with a pendant. Instead, the jeweled pendant slides nicely along a smooth, rounded outline that surrounds the neck.

I must admit that I have always admired jewels from the Art Deco Period (1920-1940) and have drawn inspiration for my own designs from this fabulous era in jewelry history. Bold geometric shapes, cool white metals like platinum, bold contrasting colors of blue and white are certainly popular elements of Art Deco jewelry which have certainly been captured in this handsome necklace.

In case you are wondering what their beautiful ring looks like...... take a peek at Blue Flame II Ring which I made when they were expecting "twins".

If you are interested in seeing more examples of jewelry I have custom designed for clients, please check out my portfolio. And if you would like to discuss a custom project, please send me an email.

Blue-Green Tourmaline and Blue Diamond Torus

Another fabulous gemstone from the Jewelry Expert collection that merits a special jewel is this oval torus ring. The main gem is a stunning blue-green Tourmaline from Afghanistan, cut with negative facets in the pavilion so as to create a dazzling array of brilliance and sparkle. The centerpiece is a natural grayish blue-violet diamond that we bezel set in platinum.

The 8.40 cts oval natural Blue-Green Tourmaline Torus measures 16.9 x 11.9 millimeters; the blue-violet diamond measures 2.15 mm and weighs 0.038 carat. I chose this blue-violet diamond for the center because of it's soft periwinkle color that was a wonderful complement to the verdant hue of the tourmaline.

A special gemstone such as this really deserves an equally special design. Since this is a larger stone, I believe it would work best as a pendant or necklace.




Some time ago I designed a striking necklace for a client in Japan, featuring a round amethyst torus ring and demantoid garnet. My Star Gazer design would be a great option for the oval blue-green tourmaline torus, with some modifications such as an attenuated or more elongated frame.

I was also thinking that instead of a concave diamond shape, perhaps a double outer rim that was also oval shaped and followed the classic outline of the tourmaline with a small round diamond channel set within the outer rim at the north, south, east and west positions. I can also see channel setting a complete line of small round brilliant diamonds forming a series of concentric ovals with the metal work, the diamonds and the torus.



Instead of setting the oval torus tourmaline vertically, it could be oriented horizontally with the pendant designed more as a slide necklace rather than a pendant drop. In this concept, the tourmaline could be set within an oval or cushion shaped yellow gold frame with small trapezoid, bullet or triangular shaped platinum tabs at the four corners, set with small colorless diamonds. The side walls of the frame could either be open and embellished with platinum scrolls or the walls could be solid and hand engraved with a radiating pattern of spikes and lines to create a star-burst effect.

And that leads to another design idea...... and another and yet another.

Sometimes I start with a design idea in my head that takes me on a journey to locate the perfect stone for the creation. But other times, I start first with the selection of a beautiful gemstone that captures my interest and dictates the design.

I must admit that I truly have a passion for exceptional gemstones and these wonders of nature inspire me to design and create jewelry that captivates and intrigues.


That's why I really love my job. So many wonderful ways to feature beautiful gems and create extraordinary jewels that will become a favorite heirloom for generations to come.

Torus rings are also available in round, marquise, pear and sometimes cushion or rectangular shapes. However, most are cut in the round and oval shapes. The talented lapidarist that cuts these stunning beauties often works with blue sapphire, montana sapphire, fancy colored sapphire (violet, pink, yellow and bi-color) as well as tourmaline, aquamarine, tanzanite and amethyst.

If you would like to purchase this fabulous blue-green tourmaline oval torus, please send me an email. I am also happy to discuss possible design options with you for this gorgeous gem.

New Year's Resolution - Designing with Fabulous Gemstones

It's the beginning of a New Year and with that comes the annual list of resolutions. Of course I have all the regulars on my list, but I have also included some fun items this year. One of my resolutions for 2009 is to design new jewels featuring some stunning torus ring gems I purchased on a buying trip last year.

Above is a gorgeous 1.91 carats marquise shaped fancy purple sapphire set with a vibrant mandarin garnet. The purple sapphire is natural (unheated) and was originally mined in Madagascar. It measures L 12.75 x W 6.6 millimeters. In the center is a 1.8 mm round 0.03 carat mandarin garnet from Namibia.

The simplest way to describe a torus is a sort of doughnut shape or basically a circle within a circle. In fact, the torus is a common form seen throughout nature such as in whirlpools, lunar and solar eclipses, the iris of the human eye and natural phenomena like tornadoes and hurricanes (i.e. the eye of a hurricane).

According to the cutter, each gemstone TorusRing™ is individually carved with negative facets that create unique displays of brilliance. The Torus ring can be done in round, oval and marquise shapes.

I purchased this specific gem because I loved the rich purple hue that danced with light as I moved it around on my hand. I set a vibrant orange mandarin garnet within the center that, in my opinion, is the perfect complement to the lush purple hue of the sapphire.

This unusual gemstone now needs a good jewel to showcase it's dazzling brilliance and beautiful colors. I think that the shape and size of this gem is best suited for a ring design.

One thought I have for a ring design is to bezel set it in 18kt yellow gold with a soft satin finish. The band could be of a simple rounded design and accented with tiny colorless diamonds like my Tingle Ring Design.

Here is an example of a Platinum Tingle Ring I made with a beautiful alpine cut fancy purple sapphire and small colorless diamonds. I love the simplicity of this design, the soft look of the satin finish and the striking cut of the purple sapphire.

Another thought would be a two-tone effect, like my Smooth as Silk design. The ring shown above features a dramatic asscher cut diamond bezel set on the diagonal within a platinum band accented with a yellow gold stripe.

Since the feature stone is purple, I think the reverse pattern of a yellow gold body with platinum stripe would be more approriate, like my Bogota Bling ring design featuring this rare Trapiche Emerald. This ring is mostly 18kt yellow gold with just a narrow stripe of platinum for contrast.

The concept would be to set the marquise shaped purple sapphire vertically along the length of the finger and then accent the shoulders of the band with perhaps some small round diamonds channel set within the platinum stripe.

Perhaps a more rounded band design like the Alpine Tingle ring but with the two-tone effect like the Smooth as Silk ring and a total width somewhere in between the two designs would be a nice look.

Well then there is the more dramatic approach to things, like my Secret Garden design which is really one of my favorites. This is a design that I create in platinum or yellow gold then hand engrave with a rolling scroll and flower pattern which is then treated with a blackening material to provide sharp contrast.

A Secret Garden band style would also allow me to bezel set the marquise shaped purple sapphire horizontally for a more unique look. I would then set mandarin garnets within the centers of the flowers to complement the mandarin garnet in the center of the purple sapphire.

With so many wonderful options from which to choose, perhaps one of my readers will allow me to create a spectactular ring for them featuring this exceptional gemstone.

The cost for this purple sapphire and mandarin garnet torus gem is $3,885.

If you would like to purchase this torus ring and discuss design options, please send me an email.

Now on to my next Resolution ....... another special design of course !!

Montana Sapphire

1.432 carats Hexagaonal Montana Sapphire

Montana Sapphires are a true American beauty. While they can be found in a variety of colors, most of the sapphires from this locality are in the Blue, Blue-Green and Teal hues. This 1.432 carats hexagonal shaped sapphire is a stunning example of fine grade stones from Montana. I fell in love with the unusual shape combined with the rich blue hue and masterful symmetry.

Some of the trademark characteristics of Montana Sapphires are a more crystalline appearance, high refraction and steely like blue hues. This type of grayish-Blue hue is ideal for platinum settings which beautifully compliment the cooler color of this sapphire. And the highly refractive quality of Montana Sapphire gives the gem a crisp display of spectral hues as the stone moves about freely.

I recently created a striking ring design featuring a similar hexagonal Montana Sapphire. The sapphire in this ring is a little smaller, weighing 1.08 carats and is also a tad lighter.

I call this design Winter Twilight. The focal point of this ring is, of course, this handsome steely blue hexagonal shaped Montana Sapphire.

I burnish set two tapered baguette colorless diamonds on each side to line up with the sides of the sapphire hexagon then added 12 small round diamonds along the face of the ring like twinkling stars at the beginning of the evening twilight in winter. This ring design could easily be worn by either a man or a woman.

If you prefer the more intense shade of the 1.432 carats hexagonal sapphire, it could be featured in a custom crafted ring based on my Winter Twilight design. Or, perhaps another design, like my Engraved Elegance series.

In my Engraved Elegance series, the ring is first hand crafted in platinum with a classic flat-edge design which is then hand engraved with a repeating wheat-like pattern that has always reminded me of Charles Schultz's famous bird, Woodstock's footprints in the snow.

Both the Winter Twilight and Engraved Elegance designs are great options for Montana Sapphire.

To learn more about these rings, please visit the Sapphire Ring Gallery on my website. I am also happy to create a Montana Sapphire jewel with other design elements. Just send me an email to discuss options.

A Trilliant Yellow Diamond

Several years ago a diamond cutter showed me a beautiful yellow diamond. The stone was a trilliant cut with nicely bowed edges and an intoxicating, glowing shade of yellow. (A trilliant-cut diamond is triangular in shape and sparkles with brilliant faceting.) The cutter knew I could not resist a beautifully cut diamond with exceptional color.

Usually I acquire diamonds as part of a custom design project for a client. Every so often an exceptional stone comes along that I purchase for inventory and create a special jewel to showcase. The trilliant yellow diamond was one of those exceptional stones.

I was inspired by the yellow diamond to create a hand-engraved platinum ring. I selected platinum to complement the brilliance of the diamond. Platinum has a beautiful mirror-like lustre and readily accepts detailed engraving. The shoulders and sides of the ring were hand engraved in a classic chevron pattern.

The diamond is a soft golden yellow reminiscent of a daffodil in the early spring. It weighs 0.87 carats and, because it is a trilliant cut, appears larger than a round stone of similar weight.

This ring was specifically hand crafted and designed for the yellow diamond. Thus I could play with the design to best complement and accentuate the beauty of the diamond. The diamond is set with three prongs crafted of 18kt yellow gold. The prongs rise up from the hand-engraved band while the shoulders of the ring narrow slightly and sweep upward. This creates the illusion that the diamond is floating above the ring.

When creating a ring for a special gemstone I focus on refining and evolving the design so that the finished jewel perfectly complements and showcases the beauty of the gemstone. I strive for a true marriage between the gemstone and its setting. I am very happy with the ring that resulted from this project.

You can view additional photos and details of this ring in our Diamond Rings Gallery.