Fresh Off The Jewelers Bench !

Just finished a lovely new 18kt yellow gold wedding band for a client.  The ring features a beautiful blue oval sapphire and round brilliant white diamonds, channel set within an open top.

The 18kt yellow gold ring is brightly polished to a mirror like finish.    The ring has a squarish shape but with slightly rounded corners for a softer look and more comfortable fit.

I love how the sapphire and diamonds appear to be suspended in mid-air within this nice heavy gauge channel setting.  The open ends allow you to see the dramatic line created by the gemstones seemingly suspended.

What shall I call this dramatic ring design?   Hmmmmm.... I wil sleep on it tonight and perhaps come back tomorrow with the perfect name !

Of course if you have a suggestion,  I am all ears !

To see more of my designs and custom creations,  please visit my website Bijoux Extraordinaire - The Jewelry Experts

Drusy Gemstones - Glistening Wonders

Drusy is a term derived from the ancient Greek word "drossos" meaning "dew" which later evolved to the Bohemian "druza" and was then transformed by the Germans to druse.   Some think of drusy as dew drops atop a mineral but I prefer to think of drusy like fine sugary crystals glistening as if freshly fallen snow on a cold winter morning.

Drusy is basically a layer of micro-crystals (i.e. tiny tiny tiny) that have formed on the surface of a mineral or matrix.

It can be seen on a variety of colors of Quartz (white, orange, yellow, blue, mauve, etc.) found world wide, as well as on vivid green Uvarovite Garnet from Russia, hot pink Cobaltocalcite from the Congo, bright turquoise colored Chrysocolla from the Southwestern United States, Brazilian Rainbow Hematite, deep black Psilomelane from Germany and Irridescent Pyrite from Russia.  

From the side, you can see the undulating depth of this lush drusy chrysocolla and the banded layers of malachite forming the side walls. Chrysocolla and Malachite are both copper based minerals that often occur together in the same matrix. Combine the rich copper generating hues of these two gems with a glittery, sugary layer of drusy and you have a spectacular prize.  

 

These dynamic earrings feature Drusy Uvarovite Garnets and took home first place in a design competition.
If you look closely, you will see that the surface is encrusted with dodecahedron-shaped crystals in various sizes. This occurs because Garnet crystallizes in the Isometric (Cubic) system which typically presents as dodecahedron external shapes. The intense green is caused by Chromium.

When purchasing uvarovite, look for specimens that have good surface coverage (no bare spots), intense color and well formed crystals.

Surprisingly, almost all of these materials are natural, even the vivid colors seen in Chrysocolla, Uvarovite and Cobaltocalcite. These truly are nature's wonders !

Cobaltocalcite gets its super hot pink coloring from Manganese.

I would call these "hot hot hot ! "
 

Irridescent Pyrite has a natural metallic shimmer of vibrant hues that remind me of exploding colorful fireworks ! The intensity of the hues is mesmerizing.


This assymetrical tongue with sweeping bands of color would be dazzling as the centerpiece of a custom necklace. I can envision a warm yellow gold frame along the body of the pyrite with a curved line of facetted rainbow gemstones forming a cross-arm at the top, culminated by a round brilliant diamond as if to mark an exclamation !






Of course there are endless possibilities for a custom jewel featuring this exotic gem. I see this irridescent pyrite set in 18kt yellow gold, brightly polished.  But a cool white platinum design with satin finish would be equally striking.  You can easily let your imagination wander with gems like this.

There are also some forms of drusy that are treated.
Titania is drusy on quartz that has been coated with Titanium to create vibrant rainbow colors.  Black onyx drusy is quartz drusy that has been dyed.

And yes, there is even drusy that is coated with 23 karat gold or platinum.

Will wonders never cease ?
 

One of the reasons I love drusy gemstones is that they are available in such a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors.  I am able to create truly unique jewelry with these glistening wonders ! Here is a gorgeous Titania coated drusy gemstone I used for a striking custom necklace.     This Titania Agate has a metallic blueish border surrounding a pocket of glowing micro-crystals in vibrant purples, blues and yellows.

I designed a pendant for this Titania Agate with a highly polished platinum frame that follows the natural contours of the gem. 



The oversized bail was then accented with a trillium cut neon blue Apatite (yes Windex-like color) and a small diamond for added brilliance.







Even the backside of this necklace is unique !

Of course mixing various drusy colors and gem types is permissible. These fabulous earrings showcase a pair of pie shaped vibrant rainbow hematites atop drusy yellow quartz trilliums. The round facetted rhodolites compliment the pink hues in the rainbow hematite.

These gems and much more are available in our gallery for purchase.  I work with a wonderful assortment of drusy gems that can be incorporated into a custom jewel of your liking.  You can choose from a great number of colors for the combination that best fits your style.

To see more drusy gems and jewels I have created with these glistening wonders,  please visit my website Bijoux Extraordinaire - The Jewelry Experts

Alexandrite - The True Changer

Yes, it has been a while since I last wrote. I have had to focus my attention on other areas of my business for the last many months.  But I am now back to writing about one of my favorite subjects - Fine Jewelry and Gemstones.    


And so,  I bring you...... Alexandrite,  The True Changer ! 


Alexandrite is a unique gemstone that displays a phenomenon called Photochroism or Color-Change effect.  Due to the popularity of this particular feature, this is also known as the Alexandrite effect even when seen in other types of gemstones. 


A fine Alexandrite will display one color under natural daylight and a different color under artificial or incandescent light.

Alexandrite responds specifically to different wavelengths of light, resulting in a range of  hues, depending on the quality of the gem. 




Under daylight, Alexandrite can exhibit lush green hues, as well as greens modified by blue to create a deep teal hue and yellowish-greens modified by brown.

Under incandescent light, Alexandrite may display a dark  red hue, a purplish-Red color or a brownish-pink. The deeper and more vibrant the colors, the finer the gem.  And....the stronger the amount of color change, the rarer the gem. 


The strength of color change combined with the purity and vibrancy of the hues are THE most important characteristics in determining the value of natural Alexandrite.

Alexandrite also has a rich history that is tied to Russian Royalty. In 1830, a poor peasant laborer discovered this unusual gem in a mine deep beneath the Ural Mountains of Russia. 
Fascinated with the way the gem turned from green to red, he and others called it the Christmas Stone. 


This was also the time when a young Russian Tsarevitch, Alexander II, was celebrating his 12th birthday.  As red and green were also the colors of the Tsarist Court, the stone was swiftly renamed Alexandrite.

Although the origin of alexandrite is shrouded in mystery,  the beauty of this rare stone is undeniable. With proper cutting, the finest alexandrite exhibits a rich bluish-green in sunlight and a deep raspberry red in artificial light. 


Unfortunately, the major Russian sources of alexandrite were depleted by the early 1900s. More recently, deposits of alexandrite have been found in the gem-rich regions of Brazil. The finest Brazilian stones exhibit deep colors and exceptional clarity which rival the earlier Russian stones. It is the beauty of these fine Brazilian alexandrites that has generated a renewed interest in this phenomenal gemstone.  



And if you did not already know,  Alexandrite is considered a birthstone for those born in the month of June.   Imagine that......a gem to commemorate your own birthday !

I love working with rare and beautiful gemstones like Alexandrite.  The layout shown above is a group of gemstones I researched and located for a specific client.  She chose the gorgeous cushion cut gem,  second from the left.

If you would like to purchase a fine quality Alexandrite and perhaps have a jewel custom designed with such a rare beauty,  please send me an email .

Additional photos of fine gems and jewelry can be found at Bijoux Extraordinaire

Luck of the Irish - Four-leaf Clover Pins

Saint Patrick's day is just a few weeks off. So, it seems an appropriate time to celebrate the luck of the Irish with a bouquet antique four-leaf clover pins. Go n'éirí leat!

Additional photos and information on each piece

can be viewed by clicking the photograhs.

A beautifully enameled Victorian lucky clover brooch. The edges of the petals
and stem are gold and set with small graduated pearls. A larger pearl is set in
the center and a second rests on a petal like a small dew drop. Created by
Bippart, Griscom & Osborn in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

A wonderful Art Nouveau brooch of a four-leaf clover set with a

small diamond. The leaves are richly detailed with fine veins

and characteristic crescent moons. A captivating example

of flowing, almost surreal Art Nouveau design. Created

by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

A beautiful four-leaf clover sure to bring luck to the wearer. A small pearl

is set in the center like a morning dew drop. The green enamel leaves

of the clover are naturally and richly detailed. The mid rib and veins

of each leaf are exactingly rendered. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

An exquisite, petite Art Nouveau brooch of a woman serenely dreaming

amid lucky clovers. The woman's profile and the four-leaf clovers are

beautifully enameled in soft pastel shades. The clovers are set with

sparkling dew drop-like diamonds. Created by Krementz &

Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900.


These and other beautiful jewels from the past can be found
in the Antique & Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Estate Jewelry as a Valentine Day's Gift

Valentine's Day is a time for sweethearts and lovers to share special gifts and tokens of endearment. Cards and candies are traditional gifts. There is also a long tradition of jewels from the past being given as an expression of one's feelings in the present and hopes for the future.

The brooches and pins created 100 years ago are particularly appropriate for conveying the sentimental messages of Valentine's Day. They are laden with symbolic meanings and hidden messages favored during the late Victorian era and early 20th century. Below is a sampling of a few of our favorite brooches and stickpins from the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

So, if you are stuck on someone special or wish to brooch the subject of your intimate feelings, an antique stickpin or brooch may be the perfect Valentine's Day gift!

Goddess of Spring

Flora, the Goddess of Spring and Flowers, was a symbol or rebirth and new beginnings. The Goddess's golden tresses are bestrewn with a bouquet of flowers and foliage. This brooch is beautifully rendered in the Art Nouveau style. Crafted in 10kt gold, circa 1900.

Dogwoods and the Moon

The Victorians loved jewels with hidden meanings. One form were rebus jewels in which elements of the jewel represented a word or phrase. For example small brooches with delicate enamel flowers set in a crescent moon, like this one, could be interpreted as "honeymoon."

The small dogwood blossoms beautifully crafted in pink and white enamel also held symbolic meaning. Among Victorians dogwood blossoms were a symbol of persistence as well as an indication of affection. Perhaps this brooch was a gift from a husband to his wife on their wedding night or at the time of their betrothal. Created by Krementz & Company in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Grapes and Pearls

Beautifully detailed grape leaves and a cluster of fresh water pearls cascade across the oval frame of this Victorian brooch. In Victorian times grapes and grape leaves were a symbol of Christ, but also carried overtones of Bacchus and riotous revelry. Created by Ostby & Barton in 10kt gold, circa 1890.

Irises

A bouquet of golden irises flourishes amid an Art Nouveau tangle of curvaceous stems and foliage. Irises were a symbol of faith, hope and a promise in love. This brooch beautifully captures the wild, fluid aspect of Art Nouveau design. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Art Nouveau Ginkgo

A beautiful Art Nouveau brooch of intertwined ginkgo leaves surrounding a soft pastel Amethyst. The intricate, flowing design is accented with two small pearls. In Japan and China, Gingko trees are a traditional symbol of longevity and resilience. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Acorns and Oak

An oak leaf and two acorns suspended from a small branch. The oak leaf is beautifully enameled with shimmering shades of green, yellow and pink. The acorns are set with two small pearls. The oak leaves and acorns are a symbol of strength and endurance, as well as a reminder that great things come from small beginnings. Crafted in 18kt and 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Lucky Charm

A beautiful four-leaf clover with richly detailed green enamel leaves. A small pearl is set in the center like a morning dew drop. This naturalistic jewel will undoubtedly bring luck to the giver, the wearer and their relationship. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

A Safe Return

A wonderful brooch of a swallow in flight. Among the Victorians swallows were a symbol of a loved one returning safely home. Aptly, swallows were often the first birds seen by ships returning to port. The piece is beautifully modeled with richly detailed feathers and wings and a red gemstone (possibly ruby or garnet) set as the eye. Created by Riker Bros. in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Additional photographs and information on these and other fine estate jewels
can be found in the Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Elegant Stickpins

The last several weeks we have been taking a Holiday tour of the Estate Jewelry and Antique Cufflink Galleries. This week we are taking a look at one of the less celebrated, sometimes forgotten, estate jewels ... the stickpin.

In the 19th and early 20th centuries no sartorially resplendent gentleman would be seen without a stickpin to secure his cravat or tie. In the 21st century these elegant jewels are often seen gracing jacket lapels or the front of a hat. Below is a sampling of these wonderful diminutive jewels from the early decades of the last century.

Entwined Serpents

The maker of this stickpin, Carter, Howe & Company, created a menagerie teeming with serpents, dragons, griffins and other exotic creatures. This example features entwined serpents with jealous green eyes guarding a regal purple amethyst. A small fresh water pearl is set above the serpents like a distant, full moon. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Dragon and Sceptre

Another example from the Carter, Howe menagerie of exotic and mythical beasts. Here a fierce dragon is either protecting or impaled on a golden sceptre set with a pearl. The dragon watches with a wary dark green eye, a hallmark of the golden chimeras Carter, Howe created. Crafted in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Border Collie

A vigilant border collie watches from within a dome of rock crystal. The pooch is beautifully sculpted with a finely detailed coat, whiskers and soulful eyes. The miniature masterpiece was created by an artist meticulously carving the image into the reverse of a polished dome of rock crystal.  Then, using brushes as small as a single hair, the collie was carefully painted with fine, lifelike details.   Crafted in 18kt gold,  circa 1880.

Egyptian Revival

A stylized palmette soars above a luminous pearl framed with flowing geometric scrolls. A dramatic example of the beautiful Egyptian Revival jewels created in the early 1900s. Victorian and later jewelry makers often found inspiration in the jewels and designs of ancient civilizations. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Heliotrope

A striking heliotrope, or bloodstone, set in a distinctive Arts & Crafts stickpin. The early Arts & Crafts movement drew significant inspiration from the craftsmanship and designs of the Middle Ages. The cruciform-shape of the stickpin and bloodstone reflect the Victorian interest in the symbols and spirituality of the earlier period. Created by The Brassler Company in 14kt gold, circa 1910.

Winged Serpent

Continuing the theme of Gothic or Medieval inspired jewels, this menacing stickpin features a winged serpent warily clutching a small pearl. The charming little fellow is the perfect miniature gargoyle to keep demons and goblins from a lapel or tie. The rich detail of the stickpin is a nice example of the fully modeled, sculpture-like miniature jewels of the period. Beautifully crafted by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Equestrian

During the mid Victorian period (circa 1860) through the 1920s, equestrian and hunt-related jewelry were all the rage.  This beautifully designed stickpin features an energetic, alert horse with a small red stone (likely a garnet) set as the eye. The dramatic, richly detailed design of the horse suggests the stickpin was created during the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

Moonstone

This stickpin exudes classical elegance with a luminous moonstone surrounded by a wreath of laurel leaves. The laurel wreath is exquisitely crafted and finely detailed. The moonstone is complemented by a small white pearl set below. Created by Whiteside & Blank in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Acorns and Oak

An oak leaf and two acorns grow from a small branch. The oak leaf is beautifully enameled with shimmering shades of green, yellow and pink. The acorns are set with two small pearls. Possibly created by Krementz & Company in 18kt and 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Stickpins have been described as miniature sculptures set atop shafts of gold. They were created in an almost limitless variety of designs and styles. Above is only a small sampling.

These and other fine stickpins can be found in the
Antique and Estate Jewelry Gallery.

Antique Cufflinks

Last week I featured several brooches from our Antique and Estate Jewelry showcase. When custom creating a jewel I often draw inspiration from the designs and craftsmanship of jewels created in the past. While the jewels we create are modern and adapted to the client's taste, they are rooted in a timeless tradition of elegant design and fine craftsmanship.

I am always amazed by the great diversity of designs that can be found among antique jewels. This is especially true of the cufflinks created during the early decades of the last century. Below is a holiday sampling of late Victorian and Jazz Age cufflinks from our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

Carrington Fireworks!

Carrington & Company created some of the finest dress sets during the Art Deco era.  This pearl and mother-of-pearl set is among them.  The mother-of-pearl centers are beautifully engraved with a pattern reminiscent of exploding fireworks while the swirling scrolls of the white gold borders bring to mind a starry night.  At the center a small pearl rests in a white gold collar with a mille grain edge.  Created in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

Voluptuous Scrolls!

A tangle of voluptuous scrolls enlivens these striking cufflinks from the turn of the last century.  They feature the tight, twisting swirls favored in American Art Nouveau jewelry design.  Created by Link & Angell in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

Art Deco Sapphires!

Elegant Art Deco cufflinks with dramatic compass rose centers set with small blue sapphires.  Jagged Greek key borders with stylized thistles inside mille grain outer edges complete the design.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.

Art Deco Diamonds!

Art Deco cufflinks with intricately engraved centers and dramatic geometric borders.  Small diamonds sparkle in box settings with millegrain edges.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

Infinite Squiggles!

Elegant blue and gold cufflinks featuring an endless golden tangle of squiggles.  Surrounding the squiggles are alternating bands of blue enamel and brightly polished gold.  A nice example of the dramatic, imaginative designs of the 1930s and '40s.  Crafted in 14kt gold by Larter & Sons,  circa 1930.

Black and White!

Dramatic Art Deco cufflinks with striking black enamel borders and linearly engraved white gold centers.  A nice example of the elegant black-and-white cufflinks of the late 1920s and 1930s.  Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1930.

Midnight Blue!

Elegant cufflinks set with beautiful rich blue gemstones that bring to mind dark night skies with a few wispy clouds illuminated in the moonlight.  Known as "sodalite,"  this gemstone, along with Lapis lazuli, was favored during Art Deco period because of its rich, regal blue color.  Created in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

Garlands and Swags!

Exuberant two-tone cufflinks from the 1920s.  The yellow gold centers feature classic garlands and swags and are surrounded by white gold borders with a bold geometric design.   Crafted in 14kt gold,  circa 1925.

These and other fine antique cufflinks can be found
in the Antique Cufflink Gallery.