Progression of a Design

Clients often ask me how I come up with a design.  

• Do I seek inspiration from a specific gemstone?  
• Or do I have the design already in my mind and look for the best gem for that design?  
• Do I take an existing design of mine and modify it to suit the needs and style of a specific client?
• Do I look to the past and study ancient and antique jewels, architecture, textiles, motifs and gather inspiration from historical designs?

The answer is.....ALL OF THE ABOVE !

I want to write about how a design progresses as I modify it to fit the needs of a specific client,  to explain one example of how I create variations on a theme...and perhaps a new design all together.

A great example of a design that I have developed over the years and cultivated into other designs, is an early creation of mine,  called Cool Ice.

The first Cool Ice ring I made featured a fine grade 2 carat oval diamond (E,  VS1),  set low in four heavy gauge prongs, flanked by two trilliant cut diamonds burnish set flush within the shoulders of the band.  The ring itself was a thick, heavy and brightly polished smooth band that was as wide as the base of the trilliant diamonds and tapered in width to form a gentle dome style ring.

The  first client for whom I made this design is a brain surgeon so we often called this the Brain Surgeon Ring.  The design quickly became quite popular on our website and resulted in many clients wanting their very own "Brain Surgeon's Ring"  or something similar with variations.

I have made this design, many times, in all platinum with oval and trilliant diamonds (as shown above),  and also in an 18ktyg and platinum combination with the same type of stones.   Later, I made this design with a round center diamond and trilliant side diamonds for clients that preferred round to oval.

Some clients desired a more rounded, softer edge dome style ring where as others requested a sharper edged band with a flatter profile for a more geometric approach.

So far,  all of these were pretty similar concepts of the original design with just some minor tweeking here and there.

One day, a client asked me to locate for him a nice round, larger size diamond.  We talked about my Cool Ice design,  but he wanted something a little different.  I suggested a wider band,  not tapered,  with an inlay of  rose gold, forming a stripe along the entire circumference.  I also thought polishing the ring with a satin finish would produce a nice high-tech look.  My client agreed and so began the creation of yet another design:  Roses and Satin.

I love the stark combination of the platinum and rose gold stripe along with the soft satin finish we applied to the metal surface.

But wait....I'm not done yet.  There is more to the Cool Ice Design yet to be fashioned !!

One day, a client approached me about my Cool Ice design,  but his "fiance-to-be" loved sapphires.  Since blue is her favorite color,  he wanted to feature a rich blue oval sapphire in a ring based on our Cool Ice design.  This was the beginning of my Cool Blue series.

I have made Cool Blue many times, with a variety of gorgeous oval blue sapphires from 1 1/4 carats up to 4 carats.  I have to admit that Cool Blue has now surpassed Cool Ice in terms of custom order requests, as more and more women are choosing sapphire for their engagement ring instead of the more traditional diamond.

Cool Blue lead to another version called Horizontal Blue, when a young couple wanted an oval Tanzanite set horizontally.  I chose fancy yellow side diamonds for this ring as yellow is a complementary color to blue-violet.  I also suggested a sturdy bezel setting for additional protection to the Tanzanite which is not as hard as sapphire or diamond.

The original Horizontal Blue was made with a matching contoured wedding band.  But I have also made matching contoured wedding bands for the Cool Blue and the Cool Ice rings.  And don't miss the Concave Facetted Horizontal Sapphire Ring which is really striking or the Mini Horizontal Blue for a more diminutive look.


So what's next ?    Horizontal Violet of course !

Many women love the colors Purple, Violet,  Periwinkle and Plum.   Fortunately,  sapphires are available in all of these hues and therefore offer a wonderfully durable gemstone for an engagement or every day ring.






I have yet to create this with an orange or pink sapphire.....any takers out there?    I think this design would be fabulous with a bright pink gem !




If  Red is your thing........how about a Horizontal Red Spinel to grace your finger.   This example features an intense Fire Engine Red cushion cut red spinel in a brightly polished bezel.



I could go on and on and on !   But I think you get the picture.  The Cool Ice.....Cool Blue.....Horizontal Blue design can be made with oodles of variations to suit your personal style and taste.


The options are endless.......limited only by our imagination.

For more information on any of these rings,  click on the photos for links to my website with additional photos and details of these rings.

I am also happy to discuss with you a custom Cool Ice.....Blue,  Horizontal...or whatever your fancy.  Just send me an email.

Until next time.....
                              Judi Anderson

What's New at Bijoux

Recent additions to the Bijoux Galleries include several striking engagement rings created for clients, a dramatic pair of earrings and an Opal pendant from two of our favorite crafts people, a custom onyx cameo portrait of a favorite horse, and elegant diamond and platinum cufflinks from the Jazz Age.

Tsavoire Faire! A custom platinum engagement ring featuring a vibrant Tsavorite Garnet and sparkling diamonds.


Mesmerizing! A striking three-diamond ring that beautifully captures the tradition of two becoming one.


Tangerine Sunset! A vibrant orange Spessartite Garnet glows like a tropical sunset at the center of this custom platinum engagement ring. Beautifully hand engraved and accented with brilliant diamonds and a small Demantoid Garnet.


Cristaux Gris Earrings! Crystalline grains of drusy quartz shimmer and sparkle with every move. These dazzling earrings feature a pair of trillium cut gray drusy quartz bezel set within rich 22 karat yellow gold frames, accented by two small round brilliant cut Tanzanites.



Onyx Cameo Horse Brooch Horse lovers will fancy this handsome 18kt yellow gold brooch/necklace featuring a custom carved onyx cameo of a stately horse. If you own a horse or just love horses, this pin/pendant is a "must have". It is also a wonderful concept to commemorate your favorite friend or loved one !


Opal and Moonstone Reverso Slide Pendant Versatile Opal Inlay and Moonstone Reverso Slide Pendant crafted in 18kt yellow gold with nautilus motif. Wear this striking necklace with either the opal or the moonstone facing out, to complement your entire warddrobe. Shown with a platinum round wire omega choker.


Diamond Elegance Elegant early Art Deco cufflinks set with sparkling diamonds. The platinum tops are beautifully engraved and surrounded by laurel wreath borders. Crafted in platinum and 14kt gold, circa 1920.

Additional photos of these and other fine jewels,
can be found at Bijoux Extraordinaire.

Radiant-cut Sapphire

1.84 carat Radiant-cut Sapphire

The color of this square radiant cut Sapphire is amazing - a rich, royal blue color that reminds us of the azure waters throughout the Caribbean where history and lore abound, as do buried treasures and beautiful sea creatures.

Deep royal blue can evoke a sense of richness as well as superiority which perhaps is one reason why so many people love the color blue. In fact, of all the colors of sapphire (and there are many varied hues throughout the color spectrum), Blue is by far the most popular.

The cut of this exceptional sapphire is also quite special. Sapphires are typically cut in cushion shapes and sometimes round and oval shapes, especially when the crystal is cut in a major cutting center like Thailand. Radiant cuts are not a common style of cut for sapphire due to the extra weight loss of crystal and the more exacting skill required for this shape. When you see a nice radiant cut, such as this 1.838 carats gem sapphire, you know it is very special indeed. This gem was recut from a larger cushion shape to allow for better proportions, brilliance and color.

You could find another sapphire for less money, but then again, why would you want something of lesser quality. If you want only the finest.....this rich sapphire is the one for you.

Sapphire is the hardest of all the colored gemstones, sitting at a whopping 9 on the Moh's scale of hardness, which makes this gemstone perfect for daily wear. It is no wonder that sapphires are the most preferred colored gemstone for clients asking us to custom design an engagement ring featuring something other than a traditional diamond.

Custom Ring with 1.51 carat Radiant-cut Sapphire

Radiant cut sapphires are special. Pictured above is a crystalline pastel blue sapphire we set for a client in a custom engagement ring. To view this ring and other sapphire rings we have created, please visit our Sapphire Ring Gallery.

Diamond Criss Cross Ring

Recently, I wrote about a Sapphire Criss Cross ring we created in platinum. We received such rave reviews for the Sapphire ring that we went on to create our Criss-Cross design in a larger scale for a gorgeous Old European Cut Diamond. Our diamond version can be made to order with a center diamond that is 2 carats and larger.

Of course if you have a larger diamond in mind, this is a wonderful design to showcase an Old European Cut Diamond or perhaps a Cushion Cut, Asscher Cut or Modern Round Brilliant Cut.

To learn more about the diamond rings we have created,
please visit our Diamond Ring Gallery.

You may also be interested in our Diamond Brokering Service.

The Great Ruby Hunt - Part IV

The Great Ruby Hunt

Part IV - The Final Touches

In Parts I, II and III we selected the gemstones and began crafting a custom engagement ring and wedding band for a client. Now the ring and band are ready for the final touches - hand engraving the bright platinum surfaces and setting the center Ruby.

I discussed with the client several patterns of engraving as well as different engraving techniques (bright cut, relief, punch, etc.). She decided on our Regal Elegance pattern interspersed with small engraved flowers and surrounded by a milgrained border. This combination of design elements nicely complements the shape of her ring and band, as seen in the photos below.

If you closely examine the above photo you will see small striations or vertical lines along the inside of the center setting. These are minute saw marks from when our platinum smith hand-crafted the mounting - an indication that the setting was hand made, not cast.

The wedding band was hand engraved to match the engagement ring. The above photo shows the flowing leaf-like pattern along the sides of the band, as well as the cut-out at the apex of the band which allows a close fit with the engagement ring.

As mentioned earlier, the client wanted an engagement ring that was wide on top, but she was concerned that the ring might look and feel heavy on her small hand. I suggested tapering the width and depth of the band towards the base of the ring. We also polished a slight bevel around the inside edges of the ring to create a more comfortable fit. This solution accomplished the best of both worlds: our client would have the bold look of a wider ring along with a comfortable fit. The photos above and below show the taper of the width and depth of the ring towards its base.

When the hand engraver had completed his task, the next craftsman, the gem setter, was ready to set the center Ruby. First he carved a small groove (or "seat") along the inside wall of each prong. This "seat" creates a niche to support the outermost edge (or "girdle") of the gemstone.

A skilled setter creates a seat that is just deep enough to properly support the gemstone, but not so deep that it weakens the prong. An over cut prong will compromise the integrity of the setting. After the seats were carefully cut our gem setter placed the Ruby within the prongs and carefully pushed over the tip of each prong until the Ruby was securely and safely held in its setting.

The Ruby is set slightly above the trilliant diamonds so that it neatly overlaps the diamonds, creating a brilliant line of sparkling gemstones. Just what you want for a beautiful and unique custom engagement ring and wedding band.

After assembling a fabulous layout of gemstones, working with our client through various design options, and hand crafting the ring, the final result is a stunning engagement ring and wedding band that not only showcases her beautiful Ruby, but also features a dazzling pair of trilliant diamonds and beautiful hand engraving. Her ring and band are truly miniature masterpieces......works of Art!

There are many steps involved in creating a beautiful jewel of lasting quality and beauty, but the finished piece is definitely worth the time and care we take to create a ring you will admire and enjoy for many years.

Tell me what you think of this design. If you have any questions about Rubies, the ring, or how the design can be tailored to your own lifestyle and taste, just send me an email !

Judi

The Great Ruby Hunt - Part II

The Great Ruby Hunt

Part II - The Hunt Continues

We were working with a client who wanted to create a striking Ruby and Diamond engagement ring. After evaluating a number of beautiful Rubies and assembling a strong grouping, the next step was to review the gemstones with the client and help her select the best Ruby for the ring.

The color of a gemstone can be described in terms of Hue, Tone and Saturation. Part of my task is to evaluate these components of color and help client's understand the subtle differences. My goal is to make sure that the client can make an educated, informed decision when purchasing a gemstone.

The human eye has difficulty seeing and remembering subtle differences in color, especially if you are looking at only one or two gemstones at a time. The best way is to examine and compare a number of gemstones all at once .... the more gems the better! Below is the dazzling array of Rubies I assembled for my client to review.

With a large number of gemstones the initial lineup can be overwhelming. After all, each of the gems is beautiful ... just in different ways.

The client was looking for a Ruby with a classic pure Red color. So, first I helped the client identify the Ruby that was the purest Red. Then we identified the Rubies with the strongest orangy Red and purplish Red hues. With these three gems as color benchmarks, we compared the remaining Rubies to determine where they fell on the color spectrum from orangy Red to Red to purplish Red.

By comparing a large number of Rubies all at once, my client was able to see how varying amounts of orange and purple affect a Ruby's color. Even more important she was able to decide which shade of red appealed to her most.

We used a similar technique to evaluate and compare the Saturation and Tone of each of the Rubies, creating benchmarks with the least and most saturated (intense) stones and then the stones with the lightest and darkest tones. This allowed our client to see how subtle differences in Saturation and Tone would affect the beauty of her Ruby.

After reviewing the Hue, Saturation and Tone of each Ruby, the client narrowed the initial field of nineteen Rubies to the following seven. These are the Rubies with color that really grabbed her!

The next step was to consider the Cut and Clarity of each of the Rubies. When evaluating a Ruby, Color is the most important factor. The Cut and Clarity are not insignificant, but they are less important than Color in determining value.

Rubies are often native cuts. This means the gems were cut at the source and tend to be cut more for weight and size than beauty. Some gemstone dealers will re-cut the stones they import; however, this is not the norm as it can be risky and costly. When judging the cut of a Ruby you want to note and avoid obvious windows, areas of extinction, misaligned facets, significantly asymmetrical shaped stones, and poor polishing. Improper cutting can affect the value, as well as durability of a gem.

Our client desired an emerald-cut Ruby, but would also consider an oval or cushion-shape stone if it was just the right color. After considering the cut characteristics of each of the remaining Rubies, our client narrowed the field to the following four - two emerald cuts and two oval brilliant-cuts.

The last factor to consider in evaluating Rubies is Clarity. Rubies are in the Type II Clarity Classification which means they typically occur with inclusions. Nearly flawless Rubies are extremely rare and expensive. A flawless Ruby can be rarer than a flawless diamond. Stones with inclusions that are very easy to see under 10x magnification and possibly visible to the naked eye are graded Very Slightly Included (VS) provided the inclusions are not too numerous and do not affect transparency or durability of the stone.

As with Cut, the Clarity grade does not appreciably affect the value of a stone except for flawless and heavily included examples. It is important to analyze the Clarity grade for several reasons:

1. It helps rate the relative quality and value of stones in a group.

2. Inclusions help confirm that a stone is natural and not synthetic. We only work with natural gems.

3. Inclusions can provide evidence of fracture-filling and heat treatment, which in turn affect rarity and value.

After reviewing all of the features of the remaining four Rubies, our client made the final choice. So which Ruby did she select? You may have already guessed, from the several hints I dropped.

................(drum roll).................

The winner is a 1.58 carat emerald cut with distinctively beveled corners. She loved the nearly pure Red hue of this Ruby, combined with the dramatic geometry of the cut and the stones silky appearance.

We started with 19 beautiful Rubies and through a process of careful elimination found the Ruby that best matched our client's desires. When hunting for an important gemstone it is worth taking the time to view and closely examine an array of gems. In this way you can find the best stone for your custom ring or jewel.

Now that our client has found the perfect Ruby, what's next? The whole process began with our client's desire for a rich red Ruby set in an engraved ring like the ones she had admired on our web site. We still needed to finalize the design, select the side diamonds and hand craft the ring. But that is the discussion for next time. Not to worry ..... I will not leave you hanging too long. Please check back soon for the rest of the story.