Celtic Knots Custom Wedding Band

Classic interwoven Celtic Knots were the inspiration for this handsome wedding band. The band was hand crafted in Platinum and 18kt Rose Gold, then hand engraved with two Celtic Knot designs known as the "Love Knot" and the "Tralee Knot".

The patterns in this band were created by an engraver using a technique known as "relief engraving" to remove small portions of the platinum background thereby raising the intricate Celtic Knot designs in high relief. The platinum background was then coated with a blackening material to add further contrast.

Interlocking knot-like patterns appeared as early as Late Roman Empire in 3rd century floor mosaics.

During the 7th century, Celtic artists began creating beautiful objects decorated with endless knots. It is during this period that plaitwork (woven, unbroken cord designs) evolved into broken and reconnected cords that became characteristic of true knot-work. The style gained increased appreciation during the Celtic Revival of the late 1800s and today is most commonly associated with Celtic Art.

The Love Knot design has two intertwining overhand knots that come together
representing two betrothed lovers.

The Tralee Knot pattern is two entwined hearts amidst an infinity-like symbol,
signifying endless love.

To learn more about this Celtic Knot band and other hand-engraved rings, please visit the
Engraved Ring Gallery and Wedding and Anniversary Band Gallery.

Holiday Cufflinks

Festive Scroll cufflinks in 14kt gold, circa 1900.

The holidays are a time of celebration, tradition and, of course, festive ornaments. Some of the prettiest ornaments in the gallery are not hanging on our tree. They are sparkling in the antique cufflink showcase.

Recently several clients asked me to create custom cufflinks as gifts for their significant other. In researching design ideas I took a look at our collection of antique and estate cuff jewels. The great variety and beauty of cufflinks made in the last century always amazes me. Here is a holiday sampling of what I found ...

Sapphire and Gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

Carter, Howe Moss Agate cufflinks, circa 1910.

Art Deco white gold cufflinks, circa 1920.

Art Deco Onyx and Pearl cufflinks, circa 1930.

Carrington Sapphire and blue enamel cufflinks, circa 1925.

To view these and other elegant cufflinks from the past,
please visit our Antique Cufflink Gallery.

In the next several months I will post pictures and descriptions of the custom cufflinks we are creating. Happy holidays to all!

Radiant-cut Sapphire

1.84 carat Radiant-cut Sapphire

The color of this square radiant cut Sapphire is amazing - a rich, royal blue color that reminds us of the azure waters throughout the Caribbean where history and lore abound, as do buried treasures and beautiful sea creatures.

Deep royal blue can evoke a sense of richness as well as superiority which perhaps is one reason why so many people love the color blue. In fact, of all the colors of sapphire (and there are many varied hues throughout the color spectrum), Blue is by far the most popular.

The cut of this exceptional sapphire is also quite special. Sapphires are typically cut in cushion shapes and sometimes round and oval shapes, especially when the crystal is cut in a major cutting center like Thailand. Radiant cuts are not a common style of cut for sapphire due to the extra weight loss of crystal and the more exacting skill required for this shape. When you see a nice radiant cut, such as this 1.838 carats gem sapphire, you know it is very special indeed. This gem was recut from a larger cushion shape to allow for better proportions, brilliance and color.

You could find another sapphire for less money, but then again, why would you want something of lesser quality. If you want only the finest.....this rich sapphire is the one for you.

Sapphire is the hardest of all the colored gemstones, sitting at a whopping 9 on the Moh's scale of hardness, which makes this gemstone perfect for daily wear. It is no wonder that sapphires are the most preferred colored gemstone for clients asking us to custom design an engagement ring featuring something other than a traditional diamond.

Custom Ring with 1.51 carat Radiant-cut Sapphire

Radiant cut sapphires are special. Pictured above is a crystalline pastel blue sapphire we set for a client in a custom engagement ring. To view this ring and other sapphire rings we have created, please visit our Sapphire Ring Gallery.

Sapphires and Diamonds

Sapphires and Diamonds are classic gemstones that always go well together. Like the classic couples of the 1930s and 40s - remember Astaire and Rogers ... Bogart and Bacall - they are striking and always make a statement. Here are a few of my favorite Sapphire and Diamond rings.

The bold look and elegant lines of this beautiful emerald-cut Sapphire begged for an Art Deco design. To complement the Sapphire I selected two elongated obelisk-shape diamonds (bullet cuts) and bezel set them in platinum. The unusual cut of the diamonds is echoed in the tapered prongs securing the Sapphire and the raised center-line of the platinum band. The ring is an homage to Egyptian Revival and Art Deco eras, two of my favorite sources of design inspiration.

While Art Deco design emphasizes the beauty of geometric lines and dramatic angles, the above cushion-cut Sapphire suggests other possibilities. Accented with trilliant cut diamonds, the gently curved edges and softened corners of the rich blue Sapphire invite the viewer to get lost in a deep pool of cool crystalline water. The beautiful Sapphire is set in an example of our Sapphire Delight design.

This ring is named Sapphire Luminosity. It incorporates a clear, steely blue Sapphire that luminesces with a shimmering cool blue light. Accenting the oval Sapphire are six baguette diamonds dramatically set into the shoulders of the ring. In the gallery we call this staggered arrangement of the diamonds a "Rockefeller". The name is inspired by the soaring skyscrapers of Rockefeller Center, the Art Deco icon in New York City.

Hand engraving is a classic technique that beautifully complements Sapphires and diamonds. This hand-crafted platinum ring has a wonderful late Edwardian/early Art Deco feel that captures the elegance of a bygone era. Note the gentle millgraining that highlights the edges of the setting and band. When creating a ring there are many varieties of hand engraving from which to choose.

Not all Sapphire rings wear their diamonds on the side. This striking ring features a round Sapphire set in a variation of our Hidden Treasures design. The Sapphire is set with a prong style known as "French Double prongs". The up sweeping shoulders of the platinum ring are creased with a gentle valley and the edges accented with milgraining. As can be seen in the picture below, two diamonds are nestled between the upper and lower gallery of the setting, hence the name "Hidden Treasures".

On either side of the hidden diamonds, small circlets of yellow gold are set in the split shoulders of the upswept band. The golden accents offer a striking contrast to the cool white and blue of the diamonds, Sapphire and platinum. It is these little touches that really make a ring pop.

Our Breathless Rings are a contemporary take on a classic design ... our interpretation of a traditional three-stone ring set with beautiful gemstones and diamonds. This example showcases a soft cushion-shape royal blue Sapphire and round colorless diamonds. The platinum band is gently tapered as it approaches the gemstones. The style is a timeless classic that will surely be enjoyed for many generations. Often when creating a new ring, we like to start with the classics and add a little pizzazz !

These are just a few of my favorite Sapphire and diamond rings. Please visit our Sapphire Ring Gallery to see more of my designs.

If you have any questions about the above Sapphire rings or our other custom designs, please send me an email or give me a call (603 624-8672).

Scintillating 360

Last month I wrote about the Scintillating Diamonds engagement ring we created for a couple. The ring was crafted in anticipation of a complementing future wedding band. Well the wedding band is done!

Scintillating 360 custom-designed wedding band.

The custom-designed band features 25 round brilliant-cut diamonds set around its entire circumference. The bead-set diamonds are neatly nestled between two crisp, milligrained edges. So no matter how the ring rolls and moves on the finger, you will always see a scintillating display of brilliant white diamonds. We have nicknamed the design Scintillating 360.

Custom engagement ring and wedding band.

We matched the shapes and profiles of the two rings so they would fit snugly against each other. On the engagement ring, the prongs were masterfully tapered in shape and thickness then tucked in beneath the diamond for a narrower profile. This allowed the diamond to be set at a traditional height, slightly above the height of the band, and still have the base of the setting narrower than the width of the band.

A scintillating collection of diamonds.

One of the important steps in creating the wedding band was matching the 25 brilliant diamonds for color, cut and clarity. The goal was ensure the diamonds presented a uniform appearance and perfectly complemented the diamonds in the engagement ring. The result was a success - a scintillating array of sparkling white diamonds.

Scintillating Diamonds

Scintillate - To throw off sparks. To sparkle or shine. To twinkle as the stars.

Ideal cut round diamonds have a mesmerizing balance of brilliant white light, scintillation and fire (spectral hues). You can actually see light dancing across a well cut diamond as it is moved and turned.

I work with many diamond shapes and styles of cuts and when creating a more traditional look, I prefer the Ideal Round Brilliant cut.

Recently a client hired me to locate a high quality ideal cut round diamond for an engagement ring. After helping him select the best stone, I then worked on creating a ring to best capture the beauty and brilliance of this dazzling diamond.

The shoulders of the ring have seven graduated size, sparkling diamonds bead set within a tapered channel. The edges of the channel are millegrained for added sparkle. When designing with diamonds and platinum the goal is to balance the mirror-like finish of the platinum with the brilliance of the diamonds. When done right the effect is scintillating ..... just like this ring!

The tops of the prongs are polished to a narrow point for dramatic effect. I call these "spear-tip points" and often use them in my ring designs.

The ideal-cut diamond is cradled within four tapered prongs that gracefully rise up from the band of the ring. The prongs are crafted from half round wire that was tapered in gauge from top to base.

The challenge was to create a secure setting for the diamond that would also allow a straight or non-contoured wedding band to fit flush against the ring. Therefore, I made the base of the setting narrow to accomplish a smaller profile. The graceful curve of the prongs is complemented by the gentle upsweep of the shoulders of the ring. Because this ring was custom designed and hand crafted, each of the design elements was created to best match and complement the beauty of the diamonds and meet the client's wishes.

My goal is always to create the perfect balance between beauty, functionality and durablity. These are the neccessary ingredients for a jewel that will past the test of time and become an heirloom for future generations.

I am currently making a matching wedding band for this scintillating diamond engagement ring. I anticipate that the set will be drop dead gorgeous and will garner much attention at the wedding reception ! Stay tuned for an addendum once the wedding band is completed.

To learn more about our Scintillating Diamond Ring, please visit our Diamond Ring Gallery. Other unique designs are featured in our Custom Engagement Ring Gallery.

Tantalizing Tanzanite!

I have always loved designing with Tanzanite. The gemstone's rich, velvety blue/violet color with flashes of red is reminiscent of lightning in a late evening sky.

Ever since Tanzanite was first discovered in the 1960s, this exotic gemstone has tantalized with its incredibly beautiful colors. To help you decide if Tanzanite is a good choice for your next custom jewel, I answer the following commonly asked questions about this wonderful gemstone.

Are Tanzanites a "soft" gemstone?

Although not as hard as Sapphires and Diamonds, Tanzanites are fine when properly set in jewelry. Because it is not as hard, Tanzanite is more susceptible to scratches, but common sense precautions will protect and preserve the beauty of this striking gemstone.

For example, you should not wear your Tanzanite ring while working in the garden. Of course, you should also remove your Sapphire and Diamond rings when engaged in activities that might lead to a nick or scratch. When not being worn Tanzanite and other jewelry should be stored in individual cloth pouches, so that the gemstones do not inadvertently abraded each other.

Proper jewelry design can also mitigate the risk to your Tanzanite. Tanzanite is often set in less exposed, less active, pieces of jewelry, like earrings and pendants. When setting Tanzanite in a ring it is best to choose a low setting that will help protect the gemstone while showing off its brilliant color. Bezel settings are a wonderful option for setting Tanzanites.

Are Tanzanites becoming rarer?

For all its beauty fine Tanzanite is found in only one place in the world - an inaccessible mine lying in the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro. Over-mining, flooding and cave-ins at the mine site have limited the supply of higher quality, larger gems. As the popularity of Tanzanite has increased, the scarcity and cost of finer Tanzanites has risen. But, be aware that not all Tanzanites are equally fine or scarce.

There is an abundant supply of lower quality Tanzanites, often with pale or grayish color and small in size. Commonly offered on home shopping channels and at discount jewelers, these lesser Tanzanites lack the beauty and pizzazz of the finer stones. Be careful! I have seen lower quality Tanzanites offered at the same price as finer gemstones.

Are the striking colors of Tanzanite natural?

Tanzanite is a natural gemstone whose color is enhanced during cutting by a process called "heat treating". When found in nature, Tanzanite crystals are usually a reddish-brown color. The gemstone crystals are heated in order to bring out the rich blue, purple and violet colors we love. The color change is permanent.

A similar heat-treating process has been used for thousands of years to enhance the color of Rubies and Sapphires. If a jeweler or salesperson does not inform you about the heat treatment of Tanzanites and other gemstones, you should probably not be working with them.

There are several man-made and natural materials that simulate the appearance of Tanzanite. One, known as synthetic Fosterite, is grown in a lab and is worth significantly less than Tanzanite. Other gemstones may be treated with films or other agents in an effort approximate the beautiful color of fine Tanzanite. Because these materials may be misrepresented as Tanzanite, it is best to only work with a knowledgeable, reputable seller with a background in gemology. You may want to have your Tanzanite evaluated by a qualified independent gemologist.

Please visit our Tanzanite Ring Gallery where we feature
more of the Tanzanite jewels we have created.