New Year's Resolution - Designing with Fabulous Gemstones

It's the beginning of a New Year and with that comes the annual list of resolutions. Of course I have all the regulars on my list, but I have also included some fun items this year. One of my resolutions for 2009 is to design new jewels featuring some stunning torus ring gems I purchased on a buying trip last year.

Above is a gorgeous 1.91 carats marquise shaped fancy purple sapphire set with a vibrant mandarin garnet. The purple sapphire is natural (unheated) and was originally mined in Madagascar. It measures L 12.75 x W 6.6 millimeters. In the center is a 1.8 mm round 0.03 carat mandarin garnet from Namibia.

The simplest way to describe a torus is a sort of doughnut shape or basically a circle within a circle. In fact, the torus is a common form seen throughout nature such as in whirlpools, lunar and solar eclipses, the iris of the human eye and natural phenomena like tornadoes and hurricanes (i.e. the eye of a hurricane).

According to the cutter, each gemstone TorusRing™ is individually carved with negative facets that create unique displays of brilliance. The Torus ring can be done in round, oval and marquise shapes.

I purchased this specific gem because I loved the rich purple hue that danced with light as I moved it around on my hand. I set a vibrant orange mandarin garnet within the center that, in my opinion, is the perfect complement to the lush purple hue of the sapphire.

This unusual gemstone now needs a good jewel to showcase it's dazzling brilliance and beautiful colors. I think that the shape and size of this gem is best suited for a ring design.

One thought I have for a ring design is to bezel set it in 18kt yellow gold with a soft satin finish. The band could be of a simple rounded design and accented with tiny colorless diamonds like my Tingle Ring Design.

Here is an example of a Platinum Tingle Ring I made with a beautiful alpine cut fancy purple sapphire and small colorless diamonds. I love the simplicity of this design, the soft look of the satin finish and the striking cut of the purple sapphire.

Another thought would be a two-tone effect, like my Smooth as Silk design. The ring shown above features a dramatic asscher cut diamond bezel set on the diagonal within a platinum band accented with a yellow gold stripe.

Since the feature stone is purple, I think the reverse pattern of a yellow gold body with platinum stripe would be more approriate, like my Bogota Bling ring design featuring this rare Trapiche Emerald. This ring is mostly 18kt yellow gold with just a narrow stripe of platinum for contrast.

The concept would be to set the marquise shaped purple sapphire vertically along the length of the finger and then accent the shoulders of the band with perhaps some small round diamonds channel set within the platinum stripe.

Perhaps a more rounded band design like the Alpine Tingle ring but with the two-tone effect like the Smooth as Silk ring and a total width somewhere in between the two designs would be a nice look.

Well then there is the more dramatic approach to things, like my Secret Garden design which is really one of my favorites. This is a design that I create in platinum or yellow gold then hand engrave with a rolling scroll and flower pattern which is then treated with a blackening material to provide sharp contrast.

A Secret Garden band style would also allow me to bezel set the marquise shaped purple sapphire horizontally for a more unique look. I would then set mandarin garnets within the centers of the flowers to complement the mandarin garnet in the center of the purple sapphire.

With so many wonderful options from which to choose, perhaps one of my readers will allow me to create a spectactular ring for them featuring this exceptional gemstone.

The cost for this purple sapphire and mandarin garnet torus gem is $3,885.

If you would like to purchase this torus ring and discuss design options, please send me an email.

Now on to my next Resolution ....... another special design of course !!

Montana Sapphire

1.432 carats Hexagaonal Montana Sapphire

Montana Sapphires are a true American beauty. While they can be found in a variety of colors, most of the sapphires from this locality are in the Blue, Blue-Green and Teal hues. This 1.432 carats hexagonal shaped sapphire is a stunning example of fine grade stones from Montana. I fell in love with the unusual shape combined with the rich blue hue and masterful symmetry.

Some of the trademark characteristics of Montana Sapphires are a more crystalline appearance, high refraction and steely like blue hues. This type of grayish-Blue hue is ideal for platinum settings which beautifully compliment the cooler color of this sapphire. And the highly refractive quality of Montana Sapphire gives the gem a crisp display of spectral hues as the stone moves about freely.

I recently created a striking ring design featuring a similar hexagonal Montana Sapphire. The sapphire in this ring is a little smaller, weighing 1.08 carats and is also a tad lighter.

I call this design Winter Twilight. The focal point of this ring is, of course, this handsome steely blue hexagonal shaped Montana Sapphire.

I burnish set two tapered baguette colorless diamonds on each side to line up with the sides of the sapphire hexagon then added 12 small round diamonds along the face of the ring like twinkling stars at the beginning of the evening twilight in winter. This ring design could easily be worn by either a man or a woman.

If you prefer the more intense shade of the 1.432 carats hexagonal sapphire, it could be featured in a custom crafted ring based on my Winter Twilight design. Or, perhaps another design, like my Engraved Elegance series.

In my Engraved Elegance series, the ring is first hand crafted in platinum with a classic flat-edge design which is then hand engraved with a repeating wheat-like pattern that has always reminded me of Charles Schultz's famous bird, Woodstock's footprints in the snow.

Both the Winter Twilight and Engraved Elegance designs are great options for Montana Sapphire.

To learn more about these rings, please visit the Sapphire Ring Gallery on my website. I am also happy to create a Montana Sapphire jewel with other design elements. Just send me an email to discuss options.

A Trilliant Yellow Diamond

Several years ago a diamond cutter showed me a beautiful yellow diamond. The stone was a trilliant cut with nicely bowed edges and an intoxicating, glowing shade of yellow. (A trilliant-cut diamond is triangular in shape and sparkles with brilliant faceting.) The cutter knew I could not resist a beautifully cut diamond with exceptional color.

Usually I acquire diamonds as part of a custom design project for a client. Every so often an exceptional stone comes along that I purchase for inventory and create a special jewel to showcase. The trilliant yellow diamond was one of those exceptional stones.

I was inspired by the yellow diamond to create a hand-engraved platinum ring. I selected platinum to complement the brilliance of the diamond. Platinum has a beautiful mirror-like lustre and readily accepts detailed engraving. The shoulders and sides of the ring were hand engraved in a classic chevron pattern.

The diamond is a soft golden yellow reminiscent of a daffodil in the early spring. It weighs 0.87 carats and, because it is a trilliant cut, appears larger than a round stone of similar weight.

This ring was specifically hand crafted and designed for the yellow diamond. Thus I could play with the design to best complement and accentuate the beauty of the diamond. The diamond is set with three prongs crafted of 18kt yellow gold. The prongs rise up from the hand-engraved band while the shoulders of the ring narrow slightly and sweep upward. This creates the illusion that the diamond is floating above the ring.

When creating a ring for a special gemstone I focus on refining and evolving the design so that the finished jewel perfectly complements and showcases the beauty of the gemstone. I strive for a true marriage between the gemstone and its setting. I am very happy with the ring that resulted from this project.

You can view additional photos and details of this ring in our Diamond Rings Gallery.

Sapphire and Diamond Engraved Ring

Sapphire Lunar Elegance!

An irresistibly blue sapphire requires a special ring. This beautiful oval sapphire is perfectly framed by two crescent-shape diamonds as side stones. The sparkling trilogy of gemstones are set within in a graceful enclosing bezel. The ring is hand engraved and hand crafted in platinum.

My Sapphire Lunar Elegance ring is part of a design series I create with a variety of gemstones and options. The design series "Engraved Elegance" includes solitaire styles as well as traditional three stone layouts. Each ring is hand crafted then beautifully hand engraved with a classic chevron pattern. For an added touch of elegance, the edges of the band are milgrained with a fine bead-like pattern.

Antique style rings, especially when beautifully hand engraved, are as popular as ever. We feature a number of beautifully engraved rings in the Hand Engraved Rings Gallery.

To learn more about this and other beautiful and imaginative Sapphire Rings, please visit our Sapphire Ring Gallery

Diamond Criss Cross Ring

Recently, I wrote about a Sapphire Criss Cross ring we created in platinum. We received such rave reviews for the Sapphire ring that we went on to create our Criss-Cross design in a larger scale for a gorgeous Old European Cut Diamond. Our diamond version can be made to order with a center diamond that is 2 carats and larger.

Of course if you have a larger diamond in mind, this is a wonderful design to showcase an Old European Cut Diamond or perhaps a Cushion Cut, Asscher Cut or Modern Round Brilliant Cut.

To learn more about the diamond rings we have created,
please visit our Diamond Ring Gallery.

You may also be interested in our Diamond Brokering Service.

Sapphire Criss Cross Ring

Sapphire Criss-Cross!

Several years ago we acquired a beautiful antique Sapphire ring . The ring was crafted in platinum with flowing prongs that crossed beneath the sapphire as they swept upward. The estate ring quickly sold to a couple in Cambridge, Massachusetts, but the design of the ring continued to intrigue us. So I created a new ring in this antique style, but with a smaller Sapphire. The design is known as "Criss-Cross".

The ring (pictured above) is hand-crafted in platinum and features a bright blue sapphire weighing 1.78 carats. To either side of the sapphire, three brilliant diamonds are bead-set along the shoulders of the ring. The diamonds are framed in box settings with milgrained edges. Beneath the three diamonds, the ring is engraved with a stylized bell flower pattern and the edges milgrained.

Antique style rings, especially when beautifully hand engraved, are as popular as ever. We feature a number of beautifully engraved rings in the Hand Engraved Rings Gallery.

To learn more about this and other beautiful and imaginative Sapphire Rings, please visit our Sapphire Ring Gallery.

Pink Diamonds - Natural Beauties

This is a platinum and diamond ring I designed, featuring a natural Fancy Intense Purplish-Pink emerald cut diamond. I also incorporated small round colorless diamonds and a striking pair of kite shaped side diamonds to create a dramatic effect for this spectacular pink diamond. The body of the ring is hand fabricated in 95% platinum, with just a hint of 18kt rose gold in the scroll like elements on the face of the setting gallery.

Natural Pink Diamonds are one of nature's true beauties. Most of the finer quality natural pink diamonds are from the Argyle diamond mine in Australia. The Argyle mine is renowned for striking red and pink diamonds.

Fancy color diamonds are graded in nine color classifications:

Faint
Very Light
Light
Fancy Light
Fancy
Fancy Dark
Fancy Intense
Fancy Deep
Fancy Vivid

The finest three classifications - Fancy Intense, Vivid and Deep - are much rarer than the lighter, less saturated grades.

When I am evaluating colored diamonds, I first ascertain what classification of color to apply to the stone, using the 9 basic categories above. Within each color classification there are 10 increments or levels of color. So my next step is to assign a level within the pertinent color classification.

For example, a diamond labeled as Fancy Intense can vary tremendously in the quality of the color. Is it a low fancy intense bordering just Fancy Yellow (i.e. level 1 - 3) or is it a solid Fancy Intense (i.e. level 4 - 6) or perhaps a strong Fancy Intense, approaching the Vivid classification (i.e. level 7 - 10) with level 10 notating the stone is borderline Vivid.

This numerical scale is not a standard nomenclature within the diamond industry, however, it is certainly an unspoken scale often used between diamond cutters, dealers and knowledgeable buyers.

This is a ring I custom designed and created for a client, to showcase a gorgeous oval colorless diamond. I matched up a layout of uniform size fancy intense pink diamonds to create this incredible design. The body of this ring is also custom crafted in 95% platinum, with the channel setting for the pink diamonds lined in 18kt rose gold.

When designing important rings for clients, I am often asked to feature or incorporate rare stones such as natural Pink Diamonds. Locating fine quality pinks is, in itself, a real art because they are so rare. Not all diamond cutters work with pinks, due to their limited supply and high cost. Over the years, I have researched, located and evaluated many very fine pink diamonds while developing a great network of cutters and suppliers that specialize in these rare beauties.

The natural fancy color diamond market is a small niche, not for the faint of heart, because rare stones like these will cost significantly more than colorless diamonds of similar size. And supply will only become even more limited as the Argyle mines work the lower portion of the diamond bearing pipes.

In fact, it is predicted that the main supply of Argyle pink diamonds will dwindle during this year. According to the Argyle Diamond Company, their open pit has a scheduled life to 2008 but they expect a further low grade open pit option in conjunction with the underground option and this underground mine could extend the life of the mine life to 2024.

Considering the short life of this mine and the increased interest in pink diamonds, prices for rough and polished stones will likely continue to escalate.

So what does that mean today? There are still opportunities to purchase rare pink diamonds, but prices have already started to noticeably increase. If you are contemplating purchasing a natural pink diamond in the future, the time to make your investment is now. Prices will most likely continue to go up and possibly at a high rate, unless another source for these spectacular diamonds is found.

If you would like to learn more about natural pink diamonds and some of the jewelry I have created featuring pink diamonds, please visit my diamond ring gallery and website.

I frequently help clients purchase rare pink diamonds which they may add to their loose stone collection or have featured in an exciting custom jewel. To learn more about my diamond brokering service and custom designed jewelry, please send me an email.